tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50662345346681090022024-03-05T21:57:59.137-08:00Paddle ReflectionsSharing my experiences of paddling and paddle making.Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-85849135243983237282018-06-22T09:54:00.000-07:002018-06-22T09:54:00.285-07:00Wooden packframe, improvements after 2 years of usage<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cTtOvHOZ4y2tVVslItc1YySju23PxgJlEaoFaw3prLuxR3hcDNuMA3OydpmLgFsiYLJDFR9M80dLI4yg_xtcGtO1fclox5PzmiwxdVbEHhtsZ78QgkLmCPaB5AGx0wwdYYc-5uMT4TYm/s1600/IMG_0107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cTtOvHOZ4y2tVVslItc1YySju23PxgJlEaoFaw3prLuxR3hcDNuMA3OydpmLgFsiYLJDFR9M80dLI4yg_xtcGtO1fclox5PzmiwxdVbEHhtsZ78QgkLmCPaB5AGx0wwdYYc-5uMT4TYm/s320/IMG_0107.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back</td></tr>
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It's soon been 2 years since I built the <a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.com/2016/12/wooden-pack-frame-project.html" target="_blank">Wooden pack frame</a>. We've since spent over 60 days on various trips and I've learned what works and what does not. I've made lots of changes since then which i want to share with all of you!<br />
<h2>
The lacing</h2>
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The lacing was previously made by thin hemp cord. Both the joints and the netting. Over time the cord stretched slightly and became a bit loose. I've since changed all the lacing to rawhide which shrinks and gets tighter when it dries. I got the rawhide from dog chews. It's a simple process to soak them and cut along the edges to create a lace. For the joints I cut it to 4mm thick laces and stretched them as much as possible before tying. For the netting I cut 5-6mm wide lace which I only stretched a little. I did a so called babiche in the same pattern as the <a href="https://canoeguybc.wordpress.com/2018/04/15/how-to-weave-rawhide-babiche-seats-for-huron-wood-canvas-canoes/" target="_blank">Huron canoe seats as described by Mike Elliott</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURLG-JonsRqjYyezpd39VdPC5-ARxwjuBkYvkQeYym0EnOJDb0kGjmw0ObtGM8eKBLdvNlJPG0dSoyY-snyfUsq4h4x4rRd6LU4XKnz47qgHHER54_YsWUZa0NoP0K66SU54pCG8wqaaP/s1600/IMG_0115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURLG-JonsRqjYyezpd39VdPC5-ARxwjuBkYvkQeYym0EnOJDb0kGjmw0ObtGM8eKBLdvNlJPG0dSoyY-snyfUsq4h4x4rRd6LU4XKnz47qgHHER54_YsWUZa0NoP0K66SU54pCG8wqaaP/s320/IMG_0115.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
Babiche </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52HPSlEE50AJVaoUZLb_F-sPpzKtB9JEKp1nBsEEooHFefr4oDLiXOq15ju9ovkReXGYMDzymuTg1Uy6I5Xl0OgVKm9nawdwPKasz4omdVVXTbbYDN7tM1I1XmaxCKGGycmsTfgJ-GjvT/s320/IMG_0108.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of lacing</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52HPSlEE50AJVaoUZLb_F-sPpzKtB9JEKp1nBsEEooHFefr4oDLiXOq15ju9ovkReXGYMDzymuTg1Uy6I5Xl0OgVKm9nawdwPKasz4omdVVXTbbYDN7tM1I1XmaxCKGGycmsTfgJ-GjvT/s1600/IMG_0108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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Since rawhide gets wet and soggy from water it needs some treatment. The tradition one is to use varnish, Mike suggests spar varnish. Since I prefer not to use any chemicals I did a mix of equal parts boiled linseed oil and beeswax which I applied by hand. I've yet to try it in rain but it seems promising.</div>
<h2>
The gear tying</h2>
<div>
My old system of tying gear to the pack got a bit tedious after a while since I had long cords hanging and every time I removed something something else fell off. Also, the rope rings I'd made started falling apart after a while.</div>
<div>
So I replaced the rope rings with metal rings, which are laced in place with rawhide. The ropes going through the rings are replaced with elastic cord. The only synthetic part of the frame. The cord is tied in each ring so it won't affect other parts when unfastened.</div>
<h2>
The buckles</h2>
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The gear tying buckles (the crooked ones with holes) have worked amazingly well. One broke but I replaced it and it's been there since then.</div>
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The waist strap buckle was slipping, not staying tight, so I replaced it with a metal buckle. Not as pretty but more practical.</div>
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The shoulder strap buckles were slipping too so I replaced them with double O-rings (I prefer O-rings over D-rings because the D-rings tend to turn 90 degrees so they look messy and doesn't work.</div>
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I also made new shoulder straps to be able to place them further from each other, before they joined in the middle which made the pack sway when moving. These new ones also feature load lifter straps which use wooden buckles (now that I knew the secrets I could make them without slippage). The shoulder straps are made from vertically folded pieces of leather, with the fold in towards the neck. This is soft to the skin and very strong.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrnqEYLDg0vfaij3-kn-JRNvZfIgD9-946JogSgbzBCLMI3DlJ_RTjXJrE-ItgQVvNzgEqgYCUkyra2zqNOLF3_bWXtwoyveNhEyIXw2MExPM4LLpY3SVENBXm6odhNbRc7J-DVBFiuBlT/s1600/IMG_0111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrnqEYLDg0vfaij3-kn-JRNvZfIgD9-946JogSgbzBCLMI3DlJ_RTjXJrE-ItgQVvNzgEqgYCUkyra2zqNOLF3_bWXtwoyveNhEyIXw2MExPM4LLpY3SVENBXm6odhNbRc7J-DVBFiuBlT/s320/IMG_0111.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new metal waist buckle, bought online</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghRxD2yPrjtUJWPJTVZPiD6c4oFUzJbyIR66HFBUG_l2soQ38EjPWZR7kgTAClKWd7ts6x7TiTbi-gFI16BsihU0NR89VFN-OAyLhVdaFO50lk9GHeMIwyvC4YJhb_jqmLSi3VpCQq3vWf/s1600/IMG_0112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghRxD2yPrjtUJWPJTVZPiD6c4oFUzJbyIR66HFBUG_l2soQ38EjPWZR7kgTAClKWd7ts6x7TiTbi-gFI16BsihU0NR89VFN-OAyLhVdaFO50lk9GHeMIwyvC4YJhb_jqmLSi3VpCQq3vWf/s320/IMG_0112.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder strap O-rings</td></tr>
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<h2>
If I made another frame</h2>
<div>
There's really not much I'd like to change on this frame. But if I did make another one I'd avoid having a cross piece right behind the head. A fall or sudden swing backwards with the head could result in some damage. I think tying a thick rope or rawhide back and forth a few times should suffice.</div>
<div>
I think this is the beauty with experimenting and making your own things. You find what works and what does not and little by little the piece of gear turns into an optimal tool, all the time changing to fit your needs. This is a process most gear on the conventional market does not go through. That gear is designed indoors, maybe tested a few times and adjusted. But it needs to get out to the consumer as soon as possible, setting a stop to the evolutionary process. And when something breaks you don't have the tools, materials or motivation to fix it.</div>
<h2>
Start using a pack frame</h2>
<div>
Whether it's bought, quickly tied together from branches or carefully made from select materials a pack frame is an amazing asset almost forgotten. And I don't mean a backpack frame. I mean a frame where the gear is tied directly to it. Either in smaller bags or wrapped up in a blanket. I've numerous times just unstrapped everything from the frame then taken it to gather firewood, to carry a big log, to bike with huge loads or transport anything that won't fit or is too dirty to put in a backpack.</div>
<div>
On last summers 6 week canoe trip we had a very big and heavy baker tent (with built in floor and mosquito netting). We did all transportation of that on the pack frame. Including the first 7 days when we portaged over the mountains to get to the source of the stream. It made our lives much easier!<br />
<h2>
And some more pics</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImFNzFMtTKkQErFbsrasRGwH0r5MsphU1Q8FABf_fVtPiZyJwwNNh0whqD_5b5cphJMl4ty7oclRJaeZ2AWyRKJduXKTXBMGttV3PudJhwwD8Xk5o6Q-YX_3_IiiGGFL_YbmMLtnsJI98/s1600/IMG_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImFNzFMtTKkQErFbsrasRGwH0r5MsphU1Q8FABf_fVtPiZyJwwNNh0whqD_5b5cphJMl4ty7oclRJaeZ2AWyRKJduXKTXBMGttV3PudJhwwD8Xk5o6Q-YX_3_IiiGGFL_YbmMLtnsJI98/s320/IMG_0110.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder straps fastened using Chicago screws. And one of the gear hooks in the middle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6hbKGNe1vCatubvE1Ex_uSSTb6NG-XYSY8cO72yHt79R3ZDkRzswlVZBrjM7afA-49ywnducxhqoGTVmYOpY5iAL8tCHZDE5OOJeyzBC5SOR5aqTC_P1c7vhedxlVOYNZFl7SNKrOgtbL/s1600/IMG_0113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6hbKGNe1vCatubvE1Ex_uSSTb6NG-XYSY8cO72yHt79R3ZDkRzswlVZBrjM7afA-49ywnducxhqoGTVmYOpY5iAL8tCHZDE5OOJeyzBC5SOR5aqTC_P1c7vhedxlVOYNZFl7SNKrOgtbL/s320/IMG_0113.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've reinforced the waist belt holder with leather to avoid tearing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi803YfsR8h-viPGQ0pDgA-_kj3Mu_lmjC-vY9kok36JdkWMFcBO9AOXY1zBHqeyUKeDIs_ewrJD0jCmYh68s4WQmASU2nhIDr-DYUDSDov4ZA5W1ki3k5Zxsxd70tmqyTkLCqrWDvuMvUN/s1600/IMG_0114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi803YfsR8h-viPGQ0pDgA-_kj3Mu_lmjC-vY9kok36JdkWMFcBO9AOXY1zBHqeyUKeDIs_ewrJD0jCmYh68s4WQmASU2nhIDr-DYUDSDov4ZA5W1ki3k5Zxsxd70tmqyTkLCqrWDvuMvUN/s320/IMG_0114.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To keep the lower part of the shoulder straps in place.</td></tr>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-46302054101305855262018-06-16T10:04:00.005-07:002018-06-16T10:04:39.890-07:00Some paddles for saleI'm about to move to Sweden again, and now I'm thinking of easing my load a bit by selling off ten of my paddles.<br />
These are all hand made by me, some are used and some are completely new. If you are interested let me know here or on Etsy.<br />
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/NordicWildwood" target="_blank">Nordic Wildwood on Etsy</a><br />
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-33565690611147555562018-06-06T02:53:00.000-07:002018-06-06T02:53:22.026-07:00Review of Bison Bushcraft wool forester shirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For a long time now I've been looking for a good woolen bushcraft shirt. I wanted one hand made of local durable materials. Wool that had been minimally processed and a good fit.<br />
After days of research on the net I finally found the <a href="https://bisonbushcraft.co.uk/collections/boots-clothing-and-outwear/products/forester-shirt">Bison Bushcraft Forester Shirt</a>, it had great reviews so I decided to order one. The price is <b>£97.50</b> but I expect it to last, hopefully for generations.<br />
As always when you order on the net it's a great surprise what you will get. These are hand made on order so delivery time was a few months, this is no problem for me. If I've survived without one my whole life I can wait a few months more.<br />
<h3>
Fit and design</h3>
I'm quite thin and according to the sites' chest measurements an XS size would fit me (I'm normally M so I was a bit skeptical) but I ordered an XS anyway.Upon arrival I tried it on, the fit around the chest was perfect, the sleeves were a bit short and the collar too small. So I contacted them and sent it back, a few months later I got a size S. I didn't even need to pay the delivery cost of the new one, just the return since I live outside of UK.<br />
The S fit nicely, both the sleeves and the collar. The chest is a bit big but not horribly. The design is obviously made for people with a bigger body. For reference I'm 175 cm (5'9) long.<br />
The only thing I find worth mentioning are the end of the sleeves, where there is a button letting you close them or open them to pull them back. When opened they work very well and can be far pulled back. When closed they are quite bulky and annoying.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA2H-mLnsIz1gfeTQTlXZWzHQITqpgKKEyEXgUqs3fxUzUNGlxrGG2SnYthfGwhCHL43ccnpEksC_VAxDdls6-Sh2lr5PQyxK2UV3c1P7CjqaP7iDxEl_DZqKmjqKfvpywZr3TsvQK1uN1/s1600/IMG_0054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA2H-mLnsIz1gfeTQTlXZWzHQITqpgKKEyEXgUqs3fxUzUNGlxrGG2SnYthfGwhCHL43ccnpEksC_VAxDdls6-Sh2lr5PQyxK2UV3c1P7CjqaP7iDxEl_DZqKmjqKfvpywZr3TsvQK1uN1/s320/IMG_0054.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bulky sleeve</td></tr>
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<h3>
Material</h3>
<div>
The material is thick wool fabric from the UK. It come in 4 colors named after the seasons. Mine is Autumn color. The colors are nice natural ones and the fabric is woven in different colored threads unlike other wool shirts which are colored after the weaving. This gives an older more genuine feeling.</div>
<div>
I'm a bit disappointed in the actual material. I expected it to be minimally processed wool. But it feels very dry to the touch without any smell. Pretty much all the lanolin is washed away, and with it many of the great properties of wool. For example, it starts smelling (sweat/dust) quite fast, much much faster than my wool sweaters which almost never starts smelling. Even when wearing a t-shirt underneath.</div>
<div>
I haven't had the opportunity to try it in rain yet and I'm very curious how it will handle that. It feels less insulating than my wool sweaters, I'm not sure if it's because of the processing of the wool, the weaving or the little too big chest part.</div>
<div>
I saw a forum post of someone washing it in the washing machine which made it shrink. This is in my opinion a good sign. Wool which does not shrink is usually treated with a thin plastic layer around each fiber. Effectively preventing most of it's good properties.</div>
<div>
If you're sensitive to itching it may be too rough for you. I have no problem with that however, but it's not soft like merino.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQt04K4TgpZ-8wQ_f6RSHztTJR6fmcFaD9O7BdFqm1YZynl8c1iZHMFUDv-HW2YwwpQxg8FTX-tk3FNGkGd7hsaj7KGDMqwOAedOznR6tck3i1wsl0yGS30vjPzUaxopxcl9SGK_APG9U/s1600/IMG_0057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQt04K4TgpZ-8wQ_f6RSHztTJR6fmcFaD9O7BdFqm1YZynl8c1iZHMFUDv-HW2YwwpQxg8FTX-tk3FNGkGd7hsaj7KGDMqwOAedOznR6tck3i1wsl0yGS30vjPzUaxopxcl9SGK_APG9U/s320/IMG_0057.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the material.</td></tr>
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<h3>
How I use it</h3>
I enjoy the shirt and I use it almost everyday when the weather is chilly enough. It's tough and can handle fire and rough treatment. I've yet to try washing it but I'll do it by hand in cold water to avoid shrinkage. I wear it as second layer or as a semi-windproof, semi-waterproof third layer.<br />
As far as I know this is the best alternative for a wool shirt out there.Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-67880586644586915962017-09-06T10:16:00.000-07:002017-09-06T10:16:57.519-07:00Some (better) alternatives to the common outdoor knotsThere are some very commonly used knots out there. Some which almost everyone uses but which are not really the most efficient when we are out in the wild. The most common problem is untying them. When you set up and take down camp everyday for many weeks all these small things gets tiresome.<br />
<br />
So here follows some knots to replace the most common ones. I don't know the name of all of them unfortunately.<br />
<br />
Before I start. Here are some terms I use which is good to know. Explanation taken from wikipedia.<br />
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<h4>
Bight</h4>
A bight is any curved section, slack part, or loop between the ends of a rope, string, or yarn.<br />
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<h4>
Standing end</h4>
The standing end is the longer end of the rope not involved in the knot, often shown as unfinished. It is often (but not always) the end of the rope under load after the knot is complete.<br />
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<h4>
Standing part</h4>
Section of line between knot and the standing end (seen above).<br />
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<h4>
Working end</h4>
The active end of a line used in making the knot. May also be called the 'running end', 'live end', or 'tag end'.<br />
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<h4>
Working part</h4>
Section of line between knot and the working end.<br />
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<h3>
The Sami knot</h3>
Replaces: Sheet bend and sometimes square knot.<br />
I found this one in a poorly translated book, if someone knows another name of it, please let me know.<br />
This knot is extremely simple. It's great for joining lines, both of same and different thickness. It's less prone to slip than the sheet bend and square knot and it has a quick release end which works amazingly well. Try it and I promise you'll love it.<br />
Great for extending tarp lines or pretty much any situation when you need to join two ends.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-C_y3KNWQdJbCUNvnmuAZf7KARIkdbQa4SRiNZ_1UvY90l3GlMy69xdjf34djPEZ3MhRoKt_iW-r7cR6VIB05R4cKYshR8q5enPSXsi2sNIab9i51Poyt7R-vXtrswUA97qCTMpFC3Chy/s1600/P1750858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-C_y3KNWQdJbCUNvnmuAZf7KARIkdbQa4SRiNZ_1UvY90l3GlMy69xdjf34djPEZ3MhRoKt_iW-r7cR6VIB05R4cKYshR8q5enPSXsi2sNIab9i51Poyt7R-vXtrswUA97qCTMpFC3Chy/s320/P1750858.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make a bight on one end (the thicker one if using different lines)</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWg0o-Ag4wxpGE9HUlthIHTb_mg28lhKXmbQegmJpgeKkFkTWozt7wAIlUxqELoT9UUdwbKgofcT_tkCmeSoFlz_qgDk-frzYKAyq4FThiyiSZs0cIRuoqMnxO0xj8HptU_TEcZbqIAUr/s1600/P1750859.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWg0o-Ag4wxpGE9HUlthIHTb_mg28lhKXmbQegmJpgeKkFkTWozt7wAIlUxqELoT9UUdwbKgofcT_tkCmeSoFlz_qgDk-frzYKAyq4FThiyiSZs0cIRuoqMnxO0xj8HptU_TEcZbqIAUr/s320/P1750859.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Go over and then under the bight with the other end as in the picture.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxIol4G00Vb651rtXIKQFmG_ZDfHS3rrsEaBYCv57GUA702yyLQaEQhiUIEwRwbT4sGJSKqujlK4zShY9M7hEMJVVJ7LO0dnhRjz4zrg-OqnU9w3Sfojgi_7h4J-vme3Z3kg1gOD3oL8B/s1600/P1750861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxIol4G00Vb651rtXIKQFmG_ZDfHS3rrsEaBYCv57GUA702yyLQaEQhiUIEwRwbT4sGJSKqujlK4zShY9M7hEMJVVJ7LO0dnhRjz4zrg-OqnU9w3Sfojgi_7h4J-vme3Z3kg1gOD3oL8B/s320/P1750861.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using the same line, grab the middle (between the end and the knot) and pull it through the bight. But don't pull the end through.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTiW6ehmHby7HQEbc7n1qNSZaL6EYUwnafD4JZsfs7rfPwUXFe9FdsfMSWkAZyq1pPuWJfcBcSvsE4qhvuVTHAO80F6yD416XyKu3PXw5HuVtrgQjKrL-48tRMiqqGs8lSAGFFBVgR-FE/s1600/P1750862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTiW6ehmHby7HQEbc7n1qNSZaL6EYUwnafD4JZsfs7rfPwUXFe9FdsfMSWkAZyq1pPuWJfcBcSvsE4qhvuVTHAO80F6yD416XyKu3PXw5HuVtrgQjKrL-48tRMiqqGs8lSAGFFBVgR-FE/s320/P1750862.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tighten it by pushing everything towards the top of the bight.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0HnxgigcVuJiHoAQiEnjkRFJVQcQsGUpIHZqRLy3nUcGMgTDjV2P2ha4_Rsbt5_5T-l8Ygy3crpcyXWSq4OdD2KLWwBeHXxG_wDmaPCxy9GB-_fCRN4SdqwIr9fHAancgaRnZlUr6t89/s1600/P1750863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0HnxgigcVuJiHoAQiEnjkRFJVQcQsGUpIHZqRLy3nUcGMgTDjV2P2ha4_Rsbt5_5T-l8Ygy3crpcyXWSq4OdD2KLWwBeHXxG_wDmaPCxy9GB-_fCRN4SdqwIr9fHAancgaRnZlUr6t89/s320/P1750863.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finish it up by pulling the parts to tighten it. The right end on the picture is used to release it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
Angler's loop</h3>
<div>
Replaces: Bowline knot</div>
<div>
Angler's loop is a fixed loop which is quick and easy to tie. Here I show two methods. The first one if you are not tying around anything and the other one when you are. I've added a small quick-release on this one too which I've not seen others use.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiObPtOvfEHXCcRFg30Ey3J-B5BqOoxGfKTSYz3RFNuTGtEYiMxYIpKlle06i04G066JsmzKchk-nbum9NQdOlL8grB3Kg5L6mDLGuIJllhbkbvqxZ_uEMaMlI73r_Jk7EKKSlpQnjNNshs/s1600/P1750865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiObPtOvfEHXCcRFg30Ey3J-B5BqOoxGfKTSYz3RFNuTGtEYiMxYIpKlle06i04G066JsmzKchk-nbum9NQdOlL8grB3Kg5L6mDLGuIJllhbkbvqxZ_uEMaMlI73r_Jk7EKKSlpQnjNNshs/s320/P1750865.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put the line as shown. The lower (big) loop is the fixed final loop we get in the end.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9c4_QL8nIHQ7hUt0vOlMhLsRNHBPrn5PdQ-BXa4t_JzQvTUPEXpFzCOg1nS1TXlhp03XWsukxHqHSVsL5Z9RwuIYfyoht4q3fvL-DD7u7wYWPqOQBfF_SF02vMwwjQYqwxqpHofanPm_y/s1600/P1750871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9c4_QL8nIHQ7hUt0vOlMhLsRNHBPrn5PdQ-BXa4t_JzQvTUPEXpFzCOg1nS1TXlhp03XWsukxHqHSVsL5Z9RwuIYfyoht4q3fvL-DD7u7wYWPqOQBfF_SF02vMwwjQYqwxqpHofanPm_y/s320/P1750871.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take the middle of the loose end and make a bight over the intersection.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xlIkCpcCRR5x5ae9PinKg8y01wPfSkl8Q-QlAMXpaLG27HC4fuwmZOZ2oSrNmggFXxBITvRx2LAG4Kn8WaBjO7Ni3PrunaYDrSLVR4D_glmegNnqVjJsiYfyNhChdrJ_4FST8z7iEvU8/s1600/P1750872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xlIkCpcCRR5x5ae9PinKg8y01wPfSkl8Q-QlAMXpaLG27HC4fuwmZOZ2oSrNmggFXxBITvRx2LAG4Kn8WaBjO7Ni3PrunaYDrSLVR4D_glmegNnqVjJsiYfyNhChdrJ_4FST8z7iEvU8/s320/P1750872.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take the big loop over the bight you just made and put it through the small loop.<br />
Tighten everything up. You now have a quick release. Though it won't release the whole knot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Here is how you make the angler's loop around an object.<div>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETWaCuu1M-AfNsQvRT_73QlWjyVbhVM1Y7a4v3T0khcGjtfAv4mSqKbSLMZXQhcYUGA4vVvfpGOBvv6oQDWL9YHJAwCIuvysvfVBIvJdoX10n2N7XtkMyrQ5Henq51rOmxK3bRetn4_hl/s1600/P1750890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETWaCuu1M-AfNsQvRT_73QlWjyVbhVM1Y7a4v3T0khcGjtfAv4mSqKbSLMZXQhcYUGA4vVvfpGOBvv6oQDWL9YHJAwCIuvysvfVBIvJdoX10n2N7XtkMyrQ5Henq51rOmxK3bRetn4_hl/s320/P1750890.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make an overhand knot on the standing part then move the working end around the object and back.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEc9uieuUVwcgEYH5mBry2yIKQVsWZ90UNcj_jDm6_c-JjfLU9m_0V42WQfO79-3CO0pKlAJtX0FBOWjSDEEDPkIKy3Rm3EKS1pmGURbSfw3yZA0g4cfB0svmRK0cn_gWo3m27EeFg9Ez3/s1600/P1750891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEc9uieuUVwcgEYH5mBry2yIKQVsWZ90UNcj_jDm6_c-JjfLU9m_0V42WQfO79-3CO0pKlAJtX0FBOWjSDEEDPkIKy3Rm3EKS1pmGURbSfw3yZA0g4cfB0svmRK0cn_gWo3m27EeFg9Ez3/s320/P1750891.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put the line through the overhand knot from above. Then cross the standing part.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5AG5Z68WoM1dadBGOsisPFV-IuFNKg7XYtDtfZfR7keJO92YAXit6jBT96jBLgohnRO9DaOXaTwzUKUU4giQ3cb4rv_RQDZ9qE4wzSM11lOJtO0jXyi4iJAdCBaaJqkWCbjXl1zudV64N/s1600/P1750892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5AG5Z68WoM1dadBGOsisPFV-IuFNKg7XYtDtfZfR7keJO92YAXit6jBT96jBLgohnRO9DaOXaTwzUKUU4giQ3cb4rv_RQDZ9qE4wzSM11lOJtO0jXyi4iJAdCBaaJqkWCbjXl1zudV64N/s320/P1750892.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make a bight on the working part and move it from the left through the two loops in the overhand knot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /><br />
<h3>
Ferrimond Friction Hitch</h3>
<div>
Replaces: Tautline hitch</div>
<div>
This one is my new favorite! I used to use the taut line hitch a lot, for like everything. <span style="text-align: center;">But it takes a while to make and it takes a while to undo. This one is faster to make and it releases in an instant.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="text-align: center;">This is used for tarps and tents and has the fantastic ability to be easy to adjust the tension with.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu1oL8P4nh1iJ_y_CSlIxNx827IubOF_rCH8EXPNrH8klcu9yT2E9ra5n6KIFcUEw31XUg3iUErkr1XeieVawCOpm6Fr1ZFq7kZVyS3kUrzJrXatJNb_ze2N7bnGrTPekHvZm1gKxf_LIh/s1600/P1750877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu1oL8P4nh1iJ_y_CSlIxNx827IubOF_rCH8EXPNrH8klcu9yT2E9ra5n6KIFcUEw31XUg3iUErkr1XeieVawCOpm6Fr1ZFq7kZVyS3kUrzJrXatJNb_ze2N7bnGrTPekHvZm1gKxf_LIh/s320/P1750877.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one was too hard to explain with photos so take a look here:<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D71hh2T7bD8" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D71hh2T7bD8</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Quick release hitch</h3>
<div>
Replaces: Timber hitch</div>
<div>
Timber hitch is another one of those knots which are easy to tie and easy to untie, but really could be a bit faster, especially with a long end.</div>
<div>
Honestly I don't know the name of this one. I've read quick release hitch sometimes and sometime I heard something about Siberian hitch or something which I forgot.</div>
<div>
This one does about the same thing, it's easier to release and it can even be tied and released with gloves.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrXqLShxy89L_tjW8kMUlaM6vRetmJV-XMv5r6Rt09BTg-D85fZMkjpj4ruvh9vzZDWTKZlo0k23652fbMXW70yNTSLQz6jA93-i1lXHtU-CYvqKUpNvl6iWA-Pa283CQ5ePN8NqS2wKk/s1600/P1750879.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrXqLShxy89L_tjW8kMUlaM6vRetmJV-XMv5r6Rt09BTg-D85fZMkjpj4ruvh9vzZDWTKZlo0k23652fbMXW70yNTSLQz6jA93-i1lXHtU-CYvqKUpNvl6iWA-Pa283CQ5ePN8NqS2wKk/s320/P1750879.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put the line around the tree or anything else. Make sure you have the working part away from yourself.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxk_lpSDA867iyWw8vDCfPMYiCFNAuvRLd_J3ia4cbhavUCEMOHGsFxYiHrbTkrqkEXfSM_-LoG9mrFZepeT8AH5xVARHZKF2qF-jyJN-CNJOWdU8oSdBS2cSgjALd85AfjqZcYu3Tddd/s1600/P1750880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxk_lpSDA867iyWw8vDCfPMYiCFNAuvRLd_J3ia4cbhavUCEMOHGsFxYiHrbTkrqkEXfSM_-LoG9mrFZepeT8AH5xVARHZKF2qF-jyJN-CNJOWdU8oSdBS2cSgjALd85AfjqZcYu3Tddd/s320/P1750880.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loop the working end around your hand. First over then back under and over again.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcJzoxLR1sIiaKtEfKt9paZzQ5ZEOcuXUNNZd6fdf2VHgE97rfbHWhC47QQcdcnT_ykA2FfopwiO2QSaAI8_RgagKxhsws4Ok9Dqu12sDFsMb3fLnFFmij1RYhNP1i7TpgTPsEdnLS9vZZ/s1600/P1750881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcJzoxLR1sIiaKtEfKt9paZzQ5ZEOcuXUNNZd6fdf2VHgE97rfbHWhC47QQcdcnT_ykA2FfopwiO2QSaAI8_RgagKxhsws4Ok9Dqu12sDFsMb3fLnFFmij1RYhNP1i7TpgTPsEdnLS9vZZ/s320/P1750881.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bring the loop around the standing part and grab the working part.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXajzYZfuRooC6gXHhheCMFC8wevLxO5nY-yYtjjZU5f7u65n7q9PZhSTzDT7IYTsGLe_9OtnDNBCQT_ANK8I9sHInSvt34HIwUZ_tf8AhF3WNwUz2imsIWcgd_GOyv377UftPDz3t7la2/s1600/P1750882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXajzYZfuRooC6gXHhheCMFC8wevLxO5nY-yYtjjZU5f7u65n7q9PZhSTzDT7IYTsGLe_9OtnDNBCQT_ANK8I9sHInSvt34HIwUZ_tf8AhF3WNwUz2imsIWcgd_GOyv377UftPDz3t7la2/s320/P1750882.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull it through, but not the end of the line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRaWWLEU4xdoHqRMQGaABSPpgl65zmrqiAvYbXvdS6trA0ML6PeHtrXiEsZ5qShpv0-1wEHDip6XZv2TFGMTD_yaNGGWhyphenhyphenHxQFRdZiJ0BLgbQt0kAnJ3qeUI_cnX_E6UYFzgXIGRbf7W8/s1600/P1750883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRaWWLEU4xdoHqRMQGaABSPpgl65zmrqiAvYbXvdS6trA0ML6PeHtrXiEsZ5qShpv0-1wEHDip6XZv2TFGMTD_yaNGGWhyphenhyphenHxQFRdZiJ0BLgbQt0kAnJ3qeUI_cnX_E6UYFzgXIGRbf7W8/s320/P1750883.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tighten it up and slip it against the tree. Pull the quick release to untie.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Tripod lashing</h3>
<div>
Replaces: Traditional tripod lashing</div>
<div>
This is another one I don't know the name of, it's from the same poorly translated book as the Sami knot. So let me know if you know, I'm sure it has a name.</div>
<div>
There is nothing that annoys me more than to undo someones tripod made with triple 8s around the poles and lots of fraps. That kind is extremely effective but not very efficient. It uses a lot of line and it takes a long time to make and undo. Not ideal if you make a new tripod at each camp. But very good for one you keep standing the year around.</div>
<div>
This one is easy to make and undo, really tight and with only half the line used in a traditional lashing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwsgLaGecoCS-c6R7a2o9XkaevpuaG4cvuduyWp2Z_6UC7cD49rI7L230_kJeazvG80JzRsMzDarGVSHUoUsHJuZsKIBnGezTd1DrfZP7EPBvlP2jCyhE8p_p1eDYE2Zofjf5YJlKOuf73/s1600/P1750884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwsgLaGecoCS-c6R7a2o9XkaevpuaG4cvuduyWp2Z_6UC7cD49rI7L230_kJeazvG80JzRsMzDarGVSHUoUsHJuZsKIBnGezTd1DrfZP7EPBvlP2jCyhE8p_p1eDYE2Zofjf5YJlKOuf73/s320/P1750884.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put the poles as in the picture, two side by side and one crossed over.<br />Set the line under them like in the picture. Measure the distance of one end of the line so it's a good length for the pot loop if you hang the pot from the same line.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJdWunAK2yi-MqMcRdrPbCY3lO4sIb1KyQ3lvdq1L-NT7APa1Lj0wRq7puQZYNfI51AW5rSVAQOqzvWET1tAt7QeXC29cSkxGQK2TifFLMu23PncFIiwN0VZyYD7T-gADMbvmlC6E6CAx5/s1600/P1750886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJdWunAK2yi-MqMcRdrPbCY3lO4sIb1KyQ3lvdq1L-NT7APa1Lj0wRq7puQZYNfI51AW5rSVAQOqzvWET1tAt7QeXC29cSkxGQK2TifFLMu23PncFIiwN0VZyYD7T-gADMbvmlC6E6CAx5/s320/P1750886.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Move the ends through the opposite bight. What you have now are actually two opposite Munter hitches.<br />Move the two hitches next to each other and tighten them by pulling to the sides, not up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSTnhWo2LEl7aGPs8ZWtp4xrhgHvrgcv1TMXaABqEXyoW48MDpfdcZQubiWyOmytrB55fWfaCDKvlmxOpwuxhiJ8vOcBh5hwXYWE0gQK2LblZNdzrb2W-LZM5NHl8SUNtXwM3SeIvsOYV/s1600/P1750887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSTnhWo2LEl7aGPs8ZWtp4xrhgHvrgcv1TMXaABqEXyoW48MDpfdcZQubiWyOmytrB55fWfaCDKvlmxOpwuxhiJ8vOcBh5hwXYWE0gQK2LblZNdzrb2W-LZM5NHl8SUNtXwM3SeIvsOYV/s320/P1750887.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now cross the lines over to the opposite side, tighten it a bit at this stage. Then continue under the poles and back. Pull hard at one end at a time to tighten it more.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin81_k8MYOqieDZ3PYU3XWd_15PiWa2GZhzXtcGNv24vGK19A9mUqjnBTNkZsKuANDjzTTCd_j_dxEPhNv56L-fT-qr_yD_wKnopW_QVY5YOPVYYVByI5owlQw41p3JOSxETQlN_XTcpW0/s1600/P1750889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin81_k8MYOqieDZ3PYU3XWd_15PiWa2GZhzXtcGNv24vGK19A9mUqjnBTNkZsKuANDjzTTCd_j_dxEPhNv56L-fT-qr_yD_wKnopW_QVY5YOPVYYVByI5owlQw41p3JOSxETQlN_XTcpW0/s320/P1750889.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finnish it off by tying a square knot while keeping the tension. Here I've coiled the excess line so it won't hang in the fire.</td></tr>
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</div>
Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-71856166632486874662016-12-25T04:46:00.000-08:002016-12-25T04:46:47.322-08:00Wooden pack frame project<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is something I've been wanting to make for a long time now. A wooden pack frame from the natural bends in the wood.<br />
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What triggered me to make it was when I saw a left over crooked log some friends had used when making kayaks. I immediately saw that it was just the right shape for the uprights of a pack frame. And since they had no more plans for it I could take it.<br />
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I found some plans with detailed plans of the frame in the book "Building outdoor gear" by Gil Gilpatrick. The frame in the book is just the kind I was looking for, the big difference for me though was that I made it from naturally crooked wood whereas he explains how to either bend the wood or glue thin strips to the right form.<br />
Using his plans I used axe and spokeshave to shape the uprights. A goal with this project was to not use any power tools and only natural materials.<br />
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I then went into the forest to get a tree for the crosspieces. It was harder than you'd think to find. But in the end I found a very crooked tree from which I could get all 4 crosspieces. I shaped up these too roughly. Then came the hard part... I had to wait for several weeks for the pieces to dry before I could continue. I put linseed oils on the end grain to prevent cracks during the drying.<br />
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A few weeks later I could do the final shaping as well as the mortises and tenons. I wanted my frame to be narrower in the top to give more space for the arms, this made making the tenons in the exact right place really hard. Since the uprights are not straight, but slightly angled inwards the length of each crosspieces varied by a few cm (up to an inch for my American friends).<br />
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I then made holes and tied the crosspieces in place using hemp cord which I put linseed oil on afterwards. Gilpatrick suggested nylon string, which you iron flap afterwards. While I'm sure it works well, maybe even better than my hemp cord. I'm just too stubborn and feel I loose some of the genuine feeling if I use synthetic cord.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2A7_jKf0V5Fg8mgxdJgFNWXODs7nCtPTqhBLFDj_sij0YrQTlk0x3KVGxZjN2F_9eCaRo295nwu1miqmy2XAjE7A7CxTySzb6AKy8YyVtVYOAGhp1J4VudDwLc8P7szJK6-8IqVUker5M/s1600/2016-12-23+6005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2A7_jKf0V5Fg8mgxdJgFNWXODs7nCtPTqhBLFDj_sij0YrQTlk0x3KVGxZjN2F_9eCaRo295nwu1miqmy2XAjE7A7CxTySzb6AKy8YyVtVYOAGhp1J4VudDwLc8P7szJK6-8IqVUker5M/s320/2016-12-23+6005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next I needed some shoulder straps and some back brace between the 2nd and third crosspiece. Since it's my first pack frame I don't really know yet what works and what doesn't. So I decided to make nothing permanent. Everything on the frame can be taken off easily.</div>
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The shoulder straps, made from leather are just attached by a cow hitch in the second crossbar from top. Then sewn onto hemp rope which I have tied with a tautline hitch at the lower crossbar for adjustable length.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzBAkiwOo-0RdRIeUe8bHUgFKvex3NHAaeQu5j0GtvPQ3B5vw7UUkLJYNqvk7IWzAGk8yWYYwUaEdC4iuuSHT14F61u1lmA8KnOrqF-Qy63yJD1BcHPMUq2rX3bez_XhMy0x1M97uvE7Z/s1600/2016-12-23+6007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzBAkiwOo-0RdRIeUe8bHUgFKvex3NHAaeQu5j0GtvPQ3B5vw7UUkLJYNqvk7IWzAGk8yWYYwUaEdC4iuuSHT14F61u1lmA8KnOrqF-Qy63yJD1BcHPMUq2rX3bez_XhMy0x1M97uvE7Z/s320/2016-12-23+6007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder straps tied using a cow hitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3DlV5yrRNccSWORJNdbNUqYnaYanDHQHqJVMJBnVwqT6WkOqhsnqmFrmOfPi9KKYgfZoOLV2Y61nPCJRSDSjy66c0SY1UhjBjUOmG1x4q5KTlLrFZetRAe3fK3ydSV-kYlD1dEJlsNDu/s1600/2016-12-23+6006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3DlV5yrRNccSWORJNdbNUqYnaYanDHQHqJVMJBnVwqT6WkOqhsnqmFrmOfPi9KKYgfZoOLV2Y61nPCJRSDSjy66c0SY1UhjBjUOmG1x4q5KTlLrFZetRAe3fK3ydSV-kYlD1dEJlsNDu/s320/2016-12-23+6006.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom of shoulder straps, tautline hitch.</td></tr>
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For the brace I used hemp cord again and tied it using clove hitches to the uprights and cross bars. I'm unsure if this will hold up in the long run. If it does I might drill holes in the cross bars and uprights and re-do it so it looks nicer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5cgp3Ot_i5KMTtzCJLq100oFNs1LeAHoAbabiQkthKzM0VN14AwKd4VwZ8GTZfLzoZC8BhzElEBUISsoHHTrXzfIwSQHdYk4lVyHc-DuOWLo4jD6OmiA06AD8fW6Mqwf4OmbXkxr_ZQlB/s1600/2016-12-23+5997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5cgp3Ot_i5KMTtzCJLq100oFNs1LeAHoAbabiQkthKzM0VN14AwKd4VwZ8GTZfLzoZC8BhzElEBUISsoHHTrXzfIwSQHdYk4lVyHc-DuOWLo4jD6OmiA06AD8fW6Mqwf4OmbXkxr_ZQlB/s320/2016-12-23+5997.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Then the final piece of the weight bearing system was the waist strap. I sewed it from left over pieces of tipi canvas and filled it with something we in Swedish call lindrev. It's made from flax fibers and used between the logs in log houses as insulation. I then linseed oiled the shoulder strap too. I don't want it to get all wet if it rains for an extended period of time.</div>
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I cut and old belt for the straps and carved 2 plates for easily adjustable length from a birch burl I've been having lying around. This made the fibers follow beautifully making them very strong. The two pieces are joined together using a piece of a tin armband which I cut and bent to the right form, then tied in place.</div>
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To keep the whole waist belt in place I sewed a single piece of canvas that goes around the uprights and is tied together like a pair of shoes.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfnXFHhW92yIcR7kSVQKxcGfjVeYlAN7xghcLFxR4LOQYvio2JKa7Qw_wruvZvimtUTqpgMJhQQy6y3LXhaUSkvPmqngDKc1755Me1WJoMk5gGOysdKWOb4sMj_XU_JKXagCc2BpRfcaJ/s1600/2016-12-23+5987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfnXFHhW92yIcR7kSVQKxcGfjVeYlAN7xghcLFxR4LOQYvio2JKa7Qw_wruvZvimtUTqpgMJhQQy6y3LXhaUSkvPmqngDKc1755Me1WJoMk5gGOysdKWOb4sMj_XU_JKXagCc2BpRfcaJ/s320/2016-12-23+5987.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waist strap joined together.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMHg7fhjeZ19Nz4i2SG_MRnZUJ2bIfC8PEJmoOGzh63zDo6NoFlITEt1t7lVk-dXyptRHMldGHuuYJ-aHA3pCuy0x1tUQH4FoRjhYmi15D0NVhfi-3TQWfpq7L_NzBHoh85idcXn-AANn_/s1600/2016-12-23+6004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMHg7fhjeZ19Nz4i2SG_MRnZUJ2bIfC8PEJmoOGzh63zDo6NoFlITEt1t7lVk-dXyptRHMldGHuuYJ-aHA3pCuy0x1tUQH4FoRjhYmi15D0NVhfi-3TQWfpq7L_NzBHoh85idcXn-AANn_/s320/2016-12-23+6004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The canvas piece holding the waist strap in place. This makes the height adjustable.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRADTWO65UtYWBKIkZgyw3OuLFCm2dSozaTqh7d1ZCOjvjfmi9yuONfD6rapg9A6E9G6b3NxYoaux0f-Xhgdpyn0okoq583R3lUTsBOzEBzvLFcH979jHkRRqzX5KaEjk0RUiPZdAkukV/s1600/2016-12-23+5998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRADTWO65UtYWBKIkZgyw3OuLFCm2dSozaTqh7d1ZCOjvjfmi9yuONfD6rapg9A6E9G6b3NxYoaux0f-Xhgdpyn0okoq583R3lUTsBOzEBzvLFcH979jHkRRqzX5KaEjk0RUiPZdAkukV/s320/2016-12-23+5998.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The final thing I needed was a quick and easy way to attach the stuff I want to carry. This took a lot of thinking and trying different ways. I've never seen anyone use this system I came up with but I think it works very well. I made 5 small loops on each upright by tying hemp cord around a double loop of thicker hemp cord. Then tied these loops to the frame. (The easy way here would be to just buy small metal rings). Then I put a cord through these loops. On one side I put small hooks, made from the same burl as the waist band, between each loop. These too are strong because the fibers follow nicely. I can then just put things in between the loops and hook it together. These hooks could be replaced by carbines just as well. And the rope which is now hemp, could be replaced with something elastic to make the system even easier and quicker.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebkZO-U0Uk2_pty-IqGFL8ItA49d-fUQXNHtU59q28f2Hzcqr19vYfV9c5-BL0tZUMPXuSBjVtlp8O2BQ2GZgi-6OmfZTN02ltr9q2Rbudh_Nq0qBMYQ_ZgxyzX9GPSOPqr4AgvktSsc7/s1600/2016-12-23+5995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebkZO-U0Uk2_pty-IqGFL8ItA49d-fUQXNHtU59q28f2Hzcqr19vYfV9c5-BL0tZUMPXuSBjVtlp8O2BQ2GZgi-6OmfZTN02ltr9q2Rbudh_Nq0qBMYQ_ZgxyzX9GPSOPqr4AgvktSsc7/s320/2016-12-23+5995.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeq1e5IfWPnDP-3_mPZL9aKjd81p0FxQgivxhkHh4xvzDrstwJ65LuDbGU9QkOjtscqULzffWt6YK1tRR4mZefZfjIkIg8wPEjaGdyZwoybYiQC77lB90u_dxBY80Bk4t92RRvqSIqqHCm/s1600/2016-12-23+5999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeq1e5IfWPnDP-3_mPZL9aKjd81p0FxQgivxhkHh4xvzDrstwJ65LuDbGU9QkOjtscqULzffWt6YK1tRR4mZefZfjIkIg8wPEjaGdyZwoybYiQC77lB90u_dxBY80Bk4t92RRvqSIqqHCm/s320/2016-12-23+5999.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The loop that keeps the gear in place.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwUU8lDfyWFL00e2QTg_FzXuYtUT2AjM7SZTB1pCKJClNU6IG0bqTLPKPqLbsYcQP7IOxu3LjP4SJJFHTKwNEpqA5Lw5lPLOUaXdja4U2IMUXuP6MqcNxCH7dntdyCyQ55qMKjlM3qfuc/s1600/2016-12-23+5996.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwUU8lDfyWFL00e2QTg_FzXuYtUT2AjM7SZTB1pCKJClNU6IG0bqTLPKPqLbsYcQP7IOxu3LjP4SJJFHTKwNEpqA5Lw5lPLOUaXdja4U2IMUXuP6MqcNxCH7dntdyCyQ55qMKjlM3qfuc/s320/2016-12-23+5996.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hook</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcWxYIJWHIQ-sQkKrOQ-WF1ks072c-emIHzasRLicUiw4cEdDSsV4FlwwvOapD1ARx5IkSjV-f88oA7J25rv1GePtA1383cA7LhcyX4k2jI2c2e2dsohu58M7gfUCo_OfHHWlVQ0JroOg/s1600/2016-12-20+5985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcWxYIJWHIQ-sQkKrOQ-WF1ks072c-emIHzasRLicUiw4cEdDSsV4FlwwvOapD1ARx5IkSjV-f88oA7J25rv1GePtA1383cA7LhcyX4k2jI2c2e2dsohu58M7gfUCo_OfHHWlVQ0JroOg/s320/2016-12-20+5985.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-82915321373460724962016-10-15T12:52:00.000-07:002016-10-15T12:52:38.801-07:00Tipi project: Part four<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">I'm down on the level of details now. So today I've been working on the holes for the sticks that keep the tipi together, the rings for the smoke flaps and the loops for the tent pegs.</span></div>
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I started by marking the holes. I put them 17 cm apart, and to keep them in line I used a square edge. It was raining today so I had to do everything inside which was a bit tight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_E86HNukdE3rCVQTRXrHXAk96l-OJoCeZTL2eWC9GlW8ZisZCfYIwuhBDg5LvaAin9v5y7pHFP48ElkpLFUB4dMWMsBbRBfdxzW6HN2IpL_nsE7rOUzWxLNJRpy7MHRZK6ERhpm3gIm5/s1600/IMG_5823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_E86HNukdE3rCVQTRXrHXAk96l-OJoCeZTL2eWC9GlW8ZisZCfYIwuhBDg5LvaAin9v5y7pHFP48ElkpLFUB4dMWMsBbRBfdxzW6HN2IpL_nsE7rOUzWxLNJRpy7MHRZK6ERhpm3gIm5/s320/IMG_5823.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDkP8tAyPcVDebNZNUCUD-e2KFP0TiL7TfKSEIaWuoQ6RUCX9ZtnHBpU5E_8u9j51-Z8vh0QX_x_5e6X73Gex8XCq58f2WdsRf8uU0WgXY8DRpLPOBbxIiXvN4kdrbeE_PsiTyZZCVNKlQ/s1600/IMG_5824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDkP8tAyPcVDebNZNUCUD-e2KFP0TiL7TfKSEIaWuoQ6RUCX9ZtnHBpU5E_8u9j51-Z8vh0QX_x_5e6X73Gex8XCq58f2WdsRf8uU0WgXY8DRpLPOBbxIiXvN4kdrbeE_PsiTyZZCVNKlQ/s320/IMG_5824.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The holes are just 3.5 cm long vertical cuts. I will hand-sew these later.</td></tr>
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After the holes were cut I started on the rings for the smoke poles. I got inspired by <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f8/06/72/f806721c6d4a5045dd7f648e1ea4e643.jpg" target="_blank">this drawing</a>, and wanted to try something similar. So first I marked out the inside of the ring and made a cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHOpujpxfPyOMtmY6pPQOwwoMw-c6X-mhjMb5ZSuNYlxZ8hpORnY_sPF8-pRGy0A-Q6vAtAdJakAKQTEXbrMHDTf_jK1LWqLzaTR8KFHypPHR8Agom5J13vDaewEfWi2B6xU1u3tEP3Sp/s1600/IMG_5826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHOpujpxfPyOMtmY6pPQOwwoMw-c6X-mhjMb5ZSuNYlxZ8hpORnY_sPF8-pRGy0A-Q6vAtAdJakAKQTEXbrMHDTf_jK1LWqLzaTR8KFHypPHR8Agom5J13vDaewEfWi2B6xU1u3tEP3Sp/s320/IMG_5826.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I then sewed around the ring two rounds. It looks quite messy. On the picture this is how they suggest it. But I' very skeptical to how long the thread would last. I can see the ring falling of in just one summer. So I reinforced it with leather to protect the seam.</div>
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To make it last even longer I took the opportunity to put raw linseed oil on everything, since it will be under the leather when I paint the tipi. I also greased the leather on both sides.</div>
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I'm actually very pleased with how it turned out. I did the leather-sewing using my (not so) speedy stitcher.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvtU_N6tKEiMfN5eQREcthkPGx1Bga1ndAz_ZzFjXal9VkGZVsAM5_V4BpkA8BCFcdJ45Kipczbu3puCjan1rKkXCzgQRWCUOPhvaS7IeENl8AbTQ0RJQFq9BnFfoSJB2FuoppFn9qv1Nz/s1600/IMG_5831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvtU_N6tKEiMfN5eQREcthkPGx1Bga1ndAz_ZzFjXal9VkGZVsAM5_V4BpkA8BCFcdJ45Kipczbu3puCjan1rKkXCzgQRWCUOPhvaS7IeENl8AbTQ0RJQFq9BnFfoSJB2FuoppFn9qv1Nz/s320/IMG_5831.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSb1v6ycl_X6EiE9ZHlrbXBGASNcFAGqCPK65_XwaITh7QKQq9q8N03Dy9daMXubhGbikw9vWxWchvCikGL7PQNxP1ccNHyjiVNh7HR9H9-JVicqQ9tsG7YISo21iNqHj0GlLRmqkCvt-/s1600/IMG_5832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSb1v6ycl_X6EiE9ZHlrbXBGASNcFAGqCPK65_XwaITh7QKQq9q8N03Dy9daMXubhGbikw9vWxWchvCikGL7PQNxP1ccNHyjiVNh7HR9H9-JVicqQ9tsG7YISo21iNqHj0GlLRmqkCvt-/s320/IMG_5832.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgchG42-YTtJbNF_gn30xgLcb8M87hbKJqxesL0Vfk7QyknE-3ZQQLjyO7FeJUdzIQUM4VPHs8jyt9vR29DXeOZ8meQ6LAhODqGZDCbLZqvszEpKKfiH2n_GhPjhlOoRrK2mgkaPIjPxuPP/s1600/IMG_5834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgchG42-YTtJbNF_gn30xgLcb8M87hbKJqxesL0Vfk7QyknE-3ZQQLjyO7FeJUdzIQUM4VPHs8jyt9vR29DXeOZ8meQ6LAhODqGZDCbLZqvszEpKKfiH2n_GhPjhlOoRrK2mgkaPIjPxuPP/s320/IMG_5834.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The last thing for today was the tent pole loops. Many tipi plans suggest eyelets, but my experience is that they gets loose from the fabric or the fabric breaks very fast. It's much better to spread out the wear as much as possible. So using some kind of bands works very well. I didn't have any ready-made bands so I followed my friend Lovisa's <a href="http://tipinitiveden.blogspot.com/2013/07/nairamar-del-5.html" target="_blank">tipi sewing description (Swedish but good pictures)</a>.</div>
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I cut 12cm wide pieces of fabric which I folded to the middle from both sides. Then folded it in the middle and sewed together. From this I cut thirty 29 cm long pieces.<br />
I also made reinforcings from 15x15 cm pieces of canvas as described in pictures in her blog. After sewing 12 of them I ran out of thread. And tomorrow is Sunday so I might have to wait till Monday to finish it. Maybe I will take a well-deserved day of rest and go canoeing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDRsEa9gw63L4_utz42AD7y3zTDEie2tr-TSs6f2VRbZOq8MwZztzAuVZaZ7kqVhyWwUUjAN0WuPzh-PYt_EUSMc1ekjwXkM2JnXvTYfF8_iJeyDoubDhdEp_hHog-K-Up4jVgpIxFqG4/s1600/IMG_5835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDRsEa9gw63L4_utz42AD7y3zTDEie2tr-TSs6f2VRbZOq8MwZztzAuVZaZ7kqVhyWwUUjAN0WuPzh-PYt_EUSMc1ekjwXkM2JnXvTYfF8_iJeyDoubDhdEp_hHog-K-Up4jVgpIxFqG4/s320/IMG_5835.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An attempt to show how I folded it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsA1XAugpWPsGlUNvjJnyNdnOJJXgL9dWPKMnaj_ViMRL0tD1UesIK6_GIOAB0jg7RI3O5yKpz7_0ZRkNxrrpqz131i5F2Mt2oy0O7bISzH0tTjUGBaQ-y5sdwOz8IvQWFnWsBe935lRE8/s1600/IMG_5836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsA1XAugpWPsGlUNvjJnyNdnOJJXgL9dWPKMnaj_ViMRL0tD1UesIK6_GIOAB0jg7RI3O5yKpz7_0ZRkNxrrpqz131i5F2Mt2oy0O7bISzH0tTjUGBaQ-y5sdwOz8IvQWFnWsBe935lRE8/s320/IMG_5836.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reinforcings to the left and the loop bands to the right.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjmlDWmZnGga4X0cVGn1InyTkIm8gQVSjdpG1Q1QIyPR8ASI57W6JmWgPsjclNQsWZ8CI46OcVezP6-Erdv6NA2etc79ZhUpnGpwwdORqgYMkLGmcRp0bwm40cGy4WVvE3Gw1NIcXvj9O/s1600/IMG_5837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjmlDWmZnGga4X0cVGn1InyTkIm8gQVSjdpG1Q1QIyPR8ASI57W6JmWgPsjclNQsWZ8CI46OcVezP6-Erdv6NA2etc79ZhUpnGpwwdORqgYMkLGmcRp0bwm40cGy4WVvE3Gw1NIcXvj9O/s320/IMG_5837.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loop in place.</td></tr>
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-73321060454692993232016-10-14T11:37:00.001-07:002016-10-14T11:37:04.480-07:00Tipi project: Part three<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnSDNOm9jn8f9xWXU4f9otl81MxzfyIzlESl_eV7kk0egi95UZ76vDTd4M5VJWr8YDIxgtCMT7DFNvlgjjYXSztjyVf8y_ZeJ_4E5uMSh6BuY_IKpIK5OcIi4ScIsQ1OOVG-VaTMTaOL1/s1600/IMG_5816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnSDNOm9jn8f9xWXU4f9otl81MxzfyIzlESl_eV7kk0egi95UZ76vDTd4M5VJWr8YDIxgtCMT7DFNvlgjjYXSztjyVf8y_ZeJ_4E5uMSh6BuY_IKpIK5OcIi4ScIsQ1OOVG-VaTMTaOL1/s320/IMG_5816.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Last days I worked a lot on the tipi, despite this horrible cold that won't leave me alone. Guess I should rest, but when I have a project going on I just have to finish it!<br />
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So yesterday I sewed the 4 big pieces together. I have this amazing sewing machine, a Husqvarna from 1940-something. It has been working amazingly well. it can only do straight seams but I don't really need any other for the tipi. Unfortunately the machine isn't mine. It's my ex-girlfriends. But if I got the chance to buy one I would do it right away! It even beats my Bernina 830.<br />
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So I sewed the big pieces together with lapped seam not sure if this is the correct English word). Either way it's done like this:<br />
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It's important to check that the seam end up the right way, so the rainwater flows off the seam and don't get stuck there.</div>
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When I cut the fabric I made sure to mark the center on each piece. So when I needled them together I got them centered. The first part of the lap seam is quite easy. You can just let the fabric go on the outside. The second part however you need all the fabric at one side of the seam to go though the machine. To make this easier I made sue it was the smaller side I took through, and I rolled up the fabric on both sides of the seam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fZ-yKE7ri_XZKI4TDOWB2t_QoacT01eD07X2eCiXJAqrpqdJKzTdGJiNtza5hll2-L5SCHcyu-f2nlRcWa3TPFoa5R-fFAKAFbVnXjeh12Q7vOiIc8C_kyeTvT3JdbZeUMtckKEum1Qb/s1600/IMG_5815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fZ-yKE7ri_XZKI4TDOWB2t_QoacT01eD07X2eCiXJAqrpqdJKzTdGJiNtza5hll2-L5SCHcyu-f2nlRcWa3TPFoa5R-fFAKAFbVnXjeh12Q7vOiIc8C_kyeTvT3JdbZeUMtckKEum1Qb/s320/IMG_5815.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My house is quite small, definitely not big enough for a whole tipi. So when needleing the pieces together and rolling it I took it outside. I got lucky and didn't have any rain. I got some ants and leaves on the floor but I can live with that.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAoWHQcJsXUkY7lfTflzXarH035Fwa7-l9xEKkbMyoQfSQoh3aIlGkNLwegBEIx3GEZ3ELnRqyPWaNYhm9FO3MiHDDJb7rtb0Psx3S2oV2lBVQgj6Nh2C-0zlzGNjR5KTJm1q0eMFT66q/s1600/IMG_5811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAoWHQcJsXUkY7lfTflzXarH035Fwa7-l9xEKkbMyoQfSQoh3aIlGkNLwegBEIx3GEZ3ELnRqyPWaNYhm9FO3MiHDDJb7rtb0Psx3S2oV2lBVQgj6Nh2C-0zlzGNjR5KTJm1q0eMFT66q/s320/IMG_5811.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All pieces sewn together.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGuDbXfBouYyixPcHETr6dY5C012eysBzRO9YqZEK-lTF2091JSSvdqQ2ZGPanggV1CYPnFfRe1zQA_9NieZsBsXQN8RvpSl3pDh03OiecsGhHLJxUUJjN_YRXGlWU6y0Dw-UoU5DhgZs/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGuDbXfBouYyixPcHETr6dY5C012eysBzRO9YqZEK-lTF2091JSSvdqQ2ZGPanggV1CYPnFfRe1zQA_9NieZsBsXQN8RvpSl3pDh03OiecsGhHLJxUUJjN_YRXGlWU6y0Dw-UoU5DhgZs/s320/IMG_5813.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rolled up and ready for the last seam.</td></tr>
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Since a tipi needs to be round I needed a big flat surface to draw on. My lawn isn't very flat. So I had to find another place to do the drawing. Unfortunately I forgot the camera. But I did it on an empty parking lot. I used an old tire and a stick to make the center point. Then attached a rope to draw the (half)circle. I cut it at home using my, if I may say so myself, awesome home made rotary cutter.</div>
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I then proceeded to sew the longest seam on the tipi. I folded the edge of the circle around a hemp rope and sewed straight through it. I thought this would never work, way too thick... But the machine did it as easily as if I was sewing in cotton candy. Or well, almost. I did break two or three needles. But except that there was no trouble. Not that it's important that you sew this seam on the inside of the tipi. Otherwise it starts collecting rainwater and rots.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late night sewing.</td></tr>
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The next day I proceeded with the middle of the straight side. Which is the highest point of the tipi. This is where you attached the last tipi pole to raise the cover. It's a critical part of the tipi, also because it is the area that needs to fit around the meeting point of the poles. So it needs to be strong and the right size (which you most easily get from other tipi descriptions.<br />
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After some measuring I made the lines from a form I cut out, to get it the same on both sides. I cut inside the lines though because I need some fabric to wrap around the rope later.</div>
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Before adding the rope in the picture above I added the smoke flaps. On them I have a rope extending from the lower edge up to the top and over to the other flap. I also added a 2 meter rope for attaching the cover to the pole on the end of the middle flap.</div>
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Finally today I cut the doors. Deciding the width was quite hard, theoretically it's 65cm now. I will see how it turned out when the tipi is up :) I also hemmed the edges of the door using a separate piece formed after the side of the door, to make it more stable.</div>
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That's all for today! I'm starting to get done with all the big pieces. Soon all that's left is the boring hole sewing and making the loops for attaching it to the ground. And after that of course I need to make the door and the lining.</div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-84044662908326000332016-10-12T04:17:00.003-07:002016-10-19T10:14:00.297-07:00Tipi project: Part twoA little update on my tipi project.<br />
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<h3>
The poles</h3>
I now have 12 of the 14 poles for the tipi. I make them out of spruce, mainly trees which are already dead. I have removed the bark from five of them, and god it's heavy work. Each pole takes 30-60 minutes. The biggest problem was that they move around and turn when I try to use the drawknife on them. But after a while I decided to strap them and it got much easier and faster. Now I average a little over 30 minutes per pole. I put as as a goal to do two per day... But now a cold is delaying me a bit. Either way there is no hurry with the poles. I won't put the tipi up until spring I think since I plan to paint it and need to do that in spring weather.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_uQYEw91k5VqPbbJjTJUv3tJWQAceJgaM6wYiJ2WRFvSoMEAh6me345dSS0Fkgdl5OB6IVzlhALqBej2s7A3tnDp8eSCII54C9DQ9Qd8sJm-1gygeWrzujbj0ERsrG6-e8vnMREE4fS6/s1600/IMG_5804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_uQYEw91k5VqPbbJjTJUv3tJWQAceJgaM6wYiJ2WRFvSoMEAh6me345dSS0Fkgdl5OB6IVzlhALqBej2s7A3tnDp8eSCII54C9DQ9Qd8sJm-1gygeWrzujbj0ERsrG6-e8vnMREE4fS6/s400/IMG_5804.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3>
The materials</h3>
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The fabric arrived yesterday. It doesn't seem too thick to sew with my machine. However it's a bit lower quality than I had hoped. The threads are thick and a bit loose. And there is no impregnation. As much as I hate synthetic impregnation I think it's important on a tipi in the climate up here. So I might have to impregnate it myself. If someone has tips of what to use, please let me know!</div>
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Here is the complete list of materials and prices (updated) </div>
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800m extra strong polyester sewing thread 26€</div>
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80m cooking cotton thread for hand sewing 6€</div>
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10 sewing machine jeans needles 18€<br />
Set of hand sewing needles 3€<br />
2 steel rings (for smoke flaps) 4€</div>
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60 meter of braided hemp rope 10€ on second hand (only 40m is actually needed)</div>
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1l tar for the painting 17€</div>
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Pigment (red iron oxide) for painting 2€</div>
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I will also use raw linseed oil for the painting which I had from before.</div>
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The fabric was 151€ plus 39€ extra vat because I live on Åland and we have to pay double vat here...</div>
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This totals to 276€</div>
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<h3>
Painting</h3>
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I mixed the paint already to get the proportions right. What seems to work is this:</div>
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1 dl tar</div>
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2 dl linseed oil</div>
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3 tablespoons of red iron oxide pigment</div>
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<h3>
The final sketch</h3>
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Now the sketch is final. I might start cutting the fabric today if this cold allows for it. Click it to see it bigger. The star is the center of the circle. It's outside of the tipi to make it tilt back a bit. A tipi is not a perfect cone, and the bottom is not circular but oval. The cone is tilted back a bit to give a straighter back wall which gives more room to stand and less risk of dripping from the poles over the sleeping area.<br />
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Update: As usual nothing is ever final. So I have updated the sketch again, October 19 2016</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuKPLvljc9ncbQDUlsOCX5CZG0A4dXIcJCdxe3Z9TUJhGFeT_EXxgGzvSZ9P4x1pu_omaUtvHJ_OYEFlhVANkq-xv4dAzCA7CriP965ix4j35F6cul0RuK_5flPGfbLtgd1Dji2wqihMm/s1600/Tipistorre-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuKPLvljc9ncbQDUlsOCX5CZG0A4dXIcJCdxe3Z9TUJhGFeT_EXxgGzvSZ9P4x1pu_omaUtvHJ_OYEFlhVANkq-xv4dAzCA7CriP965ix4j35F6cul0RuK_5flPGfbLtgd1Dji2wqihMm/s320/Tipistorre-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9507531/Tipistorre.ai" target="_blank">Click here to download</a> the plan as an Adobe illustrator document in scale 1:100.</div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-4042992801667990402016-10-02T08:00:00.000-07:002016-10-02T08:00:13.964-07:00Some more projects, food dryer and bucksawSince the mushroom season has started here and my house isn't dry or warm enough to dry them, I decided to make one. It took me only about one hour and all I needed was a file cabinet, a cab heater and some net.<br />
I removed the bottom from the drawers and replaced them with net.<br />
To make an opening for the cab heater I removed the bottom drawer and only kept the "door" which I sawed a hole in and screwed in place.<br />
At the top was a cutting board which I kept to regulate air flow.<br />
Simple as that!<br />
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Now for the bucksaw. A few months ago I made one for my dads birthday. And it turned out so well so I made one for myself too.</div>
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The design is completely my own and if someone want the plans I can send them as PDF.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuerAxRCbYY7jiq2leKmlHW_k_yYvsqH2pf2NuMRn16R1FXGKOQBmo45NYXyLIIxYGPyfAFMl7Y7hVq6ACkW362rYAwDrlwlNK3C_Qt0iXA2rAJi_QReZoVcPH9c09DzJKaE6Gy_0UHbPB/s1600/2016-06-08+5697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuerAxRCbYY7jiq2leKmlHW_k_yYvsqH2pf2NuMRn16R1FXGKOQBmo45NYXyLIIxYGPyfAFMl7Y7hVq6ACkW362rYAwDrlwlNK3C_Qt0iXA2rAJi_QReZoVcPH9c09DzJKaE6Gy_0UHbPB/s320/2016-06-08+5697.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-24227634623492902472016-09-30T23:22:00.000-07:002016-09-30T23:22:25.506-07:00Introducing the paddle workbench<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7eSedEGYLNSMLXjw2XeRvDbwY9trqdbSZrk5d63brrd-m7L6F6Z5hYzq4zHBKFzveW4UPCYB-gM0gHa6qHMwBlIbLLs0X_6PU7uIEKcxmCeWGmmpT-4FbkzjaZY2q-dQQoNKjiccG0V9/s1600/2016-05-08+8481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7eSedEGYLNSMLXjw2XeRvDbwY9trqdbSZrk5d63brrd-m7L6F6Z5hYzq4zHBKFzveW4UPCYB-gM0gHa6qHMwBlIbLLs0X_6PU7uIEKcxmCeWGmmpT-4FbkzjaZY2q-dQQoNKjiccG0V9/s400/2016-05-08+8481.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I've been looking around for ideas on workbenches especially made for paddles, but have not been able to find any. After a lot of thinking I came up with this idea. I'm sure there are a lot of ways to improve it, but so far it has worked wonderfully. I made this in spring, and wrote this post in spring. But I forgot to publish it.<br />
If someone decides to make one I'm very curious to hear how it works and if you have thought of any improvements!<br />
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The criteria were:</div>
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- Easy to attach/detach the paddle.</div>
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- Possibility to work with any (realistic) length paddle and blade.</div>
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- No obstructions for the spokeshave/plane, even when using it in near vertical position.</div>
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- Easy to move the whole workbench.</div>
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- Both a blank and a shaved blade should get support underneath.</div>
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<h3>
Construction</h3>
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The basic idea is a permanent support for the shaft and grip and a blade support which can be moved to adjust the paddle's overall length and also moved up a bit to support a blade which is thinner than the shaft. For holding things in place I use wooden holdfasts. Mine are made from branches of ash (or any hard wood) but there are also iron-versions you can either buy or forge yourself. Normal clamps works too, but they take too much effort and time to adjust imo.</div>
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The base is a thick wide plank, with part of it narrowed down (see picture at end of post). On the narrowed down part a slightly blade-shaped plank with 2 support pieces can be attached to support the blade.</div>
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The base plank is supported by legs in the ends in a 20 degree angle at comfortable working height. To be able to work on the profile of the paddle, 20 mm (0.8 inches) holes for the holdfasts are drilled through the plank. To work on the flat side of the paddle one 3.5 x 3.5 cm (1.4 x 1.4 inch) piece is screwed on to the side, close to the bottom of the wide part of the plank, and another one on one of the support pieces for the blade support. These have vertical holes for holdfasts.</div>
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On the grip end of the workbench is a small piece of wood which can be switched up to prevent the paddle from sliding back. Similarly on the blade support there are 2 stops at the paddle's tip which prevents it from sliding that way.<br />
For the case where the blade support is very far from the shaft support I have drilled holes from the top in the narrowed down part and made extension pieces for the shaft that can be inserted using plugs.<br />
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<h3>
Use</h3>
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It can be used for working on the paddle in both profile and flat view. Starting with a blank you remove the blade support and attach the blank to the side of the workbench using holdfasts. Here you can fine-tune the edges, then turn it and do the other side.</div>
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Now attach the blade support, put the paddle on top and adjust the distance of the blade support so it stops the paddle form sliding. Use holdfasts here too to keep the support in place.</div>
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Work down the blade however you prefer, I do most of the work using axe then flatten it with a plane and finally fine tuning using spokeshave. Do the grip while you're at it.</div>
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Now when you've done the thickness on one side you can flip the paddle, loosen the blade support and use 2 small wedges to get it to the right height before fastening it again.</div>
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Finally, to work on the shaft you can use holdfasts on the blade and grip then work it down using spokeshave, you will have access to two on the corners of the shaft unlike on an ordinary workbench where you only have access to one.</div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-78453758474751767132016-09-29T01:58:00.002-07:002016-10-19T10:14:50.441-07:00Tipi project: Part one<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Now it's been a loong time since I last wrote something here. It's not because I haven't done anything, but rather because I have been doing a lot!<br />
The biggest thing being planning for a 7 week canoeing trip in northern Finland (Ivalojki) the next summer. But more on that later.<br />
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As some of you know I lived 2 years in tipi in Sweden while studying bushcraft. After that unfortunately I moved and have been living inside for two years. But recently I spent one week in a tipi while building a canoe for the upcoming canoeing trip.And that really reminded me of how fantastic it is to fall asleep to the sound of the fire, and to wake up to the sound of the birds flying inside the tipi.<br />
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So when I got home I started researching how to build one. The one I used to live in was built after this instruction (Swedish):<br />
<a href="http://www.naturligt-ute.se/pdf/tipibygge.pdf">http://www.naturligt-ute.se/pdf/tipibygge.pdf</a><br />
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So while designing my tipi I use that as reference. There is, however some things I see could be improved on that design:<br />
The smoke flaps, for example. They are REALLY big. Both too high and too wide. So I wanted to make them smaller. The big size makes them flap in the wind and heavy to move.<br />
The pinholes that keeps the tipi together are too big (3 cm in diameter). And they are on a separate piece of fabric, which is usually the first seam to break on a tipi. So I wanted mine on the main fabric, with no seams, possibly even some reinforcement. I also believe the holes are too close so I moved them further apart lengthwise.<br />
The "doorstep" is very low, which makes the door quite low. As my friend <a href="http://tipinitiveden.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Lovisa</a> pointed out it's a good idea to make it higher to move the door up a bit.<br />
I also adjusted the top of the tipi, where you tie the raising pole, after <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f8/06/72/f806721c6d4a5045dd7f648e1ea4e643.jpg" target="_blank">THIS</a> instruction. That way I don't need the wedges to lengthen the smoke flaps.<br />
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So I needed some canvas for all this. In the Swedish instruction the width is 160 cm. There is no mention of the thickness. So I started researching the thickness needed. And damn it's confusing with the English/American oz per square yard and the rest of the worlds grams per square meter. I came to the conclusion that it should be at least 12 oz after reading <a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/canvas-wall-tent-fabric/" target="_blank">THIS</a>.<br />
There is a Dutch site called <a href="https://www.esvocampingshop.com/en/" target="_blank">Esvocampingshop</a> which has some different canvas to good prices.<br />
But even with these prices a tipi would cost over 400€. That's more than I can afford. So I kept looking.... and looking..... and looking.<br />
And finally I found a good deal on <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140402908903" target="_blank">EBAY</a>. A 40 meter roll, which is exactly as much as I needed, of 12 oz cotton canvas. Only 147 cm wide though. But after some planning I came to the conclusion that it would still work. I ran 12 oz per square yard in a converter to g per square meters. And it says 406 g per square meter. Now if that is correct it's quite thick. I am not sure if my sewing machine will be able to sew it... But that's a later problem!<br />
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The fabric is scheduled to arrive around October 10. Until then I hope to find a big enough room to sew it in. I'm also gonna start looking for poles for the tipi.<br />
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Finally, here is my current tipi plan. It's not final. So if you have any input I would be happy to hear!<br />
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Update: The final plan is in part 2</div>
<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-25105802515316403112015-11-23T12:18:00.001-08:002015-11-23T12:18:26.960-08:00Why not paddle with a plank?I've been thinking about how to explain the basics of the classic paddle shape for a while now. A really simple way to understand all of it's curves and form. And today by accident I thought of a good way.<br />
I had loaded the canoe on our car getting ready to paddle to work. It's a 10 min drive and then a short portage and a short trip on the sea out to the island where I'm working at the moment. So I portaged to the shore. Put the canoe in the water and was just about to paddle away, when I realized... I forgot the paddle at home. So I had the option to either walk to the car, drive home and get it and come back.... or find something else to paddle with.<br />
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Well, what are the requirements for something I could paddle with? Just a stick would have been enough. If it's long enough it can propel the canoe forward and even simple steering is possible. But it's not easy to hold, since it has no flat grip neither horizontally or vertically. And because the part in the water is also round it won't get a good grip in the water. So I went the more sophisticated way and took a plank I found lying around. This gave me a flat surface with both a horizontal and vertical area to hold. And a flat blade for better grip in the water. But unfortunately the only plank I found was too short, just a little under a meter (3 feet) long.<br />
Either way I decided to head out with this. Paddling with such a short "paddle" was very exhausting for the wrist because I didn't get the leverage of a longer paddle, so had to press harder.<br />
When I arrived at the island I found a longer plank for the trip back. Now this I think is the minimum for comfortable and efficient paddling, a thin plank in good length. From here on it's mostly luxury adjustments to make paddling more comfortable.<br />
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My next concern was that I couldn't do underwater recoveries. The plank was too thick so the underwater recovery would turn the canoe toward the paddling side and slow it down. So I had to lift the rather heavy plank above water every stroke. This could easily be adjusted by sharpening the edges with an axe. And to lower the weight the whole under water area could be made thinner. I didn't do this as I was just paddling a short distance. But if I was on a trip and lost my paddle I definitely would. Assuming I had an axe or knife with me.<br />
Next problem was the middle part of the plank. It's too wide to get a good grip around and the lower hand comes too far from the center for good J-strokes using the gunwale as leverage. This is the reason for the shaft. This too, would be quite easy to do with an axe in an emergency.<br />
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Now at this point all other modifications are pure luxury. Except one. I mentioned the curves of the paddle in the beginning. They are not just there to look beautiful. A good even curve in the transition from shaft to blade adds a lot of strength. Same from shaft to grip. The reason is that each fiber in the wood gets an underlying fiber that stretches further. Imagine a blade which just has a 90 degree transition from the shaft. When you paddle pressure is put on the sides of the blade. A lof of pressure is put on the "corner" closest to the shaft. It will be forced to bend backwards and the point that bends most easy is in the 90 degree corner. Eventually it will bent too much and crack. By having an even curve the "bending point" will be split up over the whole area and allow the paddle to do a smooth bend.<br />
To try and explain this I made a simple (but ugly) drawing in illustrator. Click to see it bigger.<br />
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Well, to summarize it. I think this thought process is how the paddles have evolved. The very first watercrafts, maybe just logs, were propelled by sticks. Someone noticed something wider has better grip in the water, and from there on it just kept evolving into what we have today.</div>
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For more in-depth read about paddle design see some of my first posts:<br />
<a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.com/2014/07/open-canoe-paddles-1-paddle-and.html">Open canoe paddles 1: The paddle and materials</a><br />
<a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.com/2014/11/open-canoe-paddles-part-2-shaft.html">Open canoe paddles 2: The shaft</a><br />
<a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.com/2014/11/open-canoe-paddles-3-grip.html">Open canoe paddles 3: The grip</a><br />
<a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.com/2014/11/open-canoe-paddles-4-blade.html">Open canoe paddles 4: The blade</a>Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-58734667158173829872015-06-30T07:33:00.000-07:002015-06-30T07:40:12.692-07:00Nine days solo canoeing tripAt the end of May I finished my woodworking course at Insjön in Sweden. The school was quite far into the country and I usually live by the sea. So I saw this as an excellent opportunity for a long canoeing trip.<br />
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<h3>
Dalälven</h3>
Dalälven is the river I paddled, it is one of Swedens biggest rivers. It starts off as two rivers, west Dalälven and east Dalälven which both have their sources in Norway, and then meet up and flow a little bit south of the middle of Sweden to finally reach the Baltic sea close to Gävle, about 100 miles north of Stockholm. East Dalälven passes close to the school so I decided to follow it down to the sea, a total of 256 kilometers (159 miles).<br />
The name Dalälven consists of two words, "dal" which means valley and "älv" which means a river starting in the mountains. It flows through the county Dalarna (valleys) in Sweden which I believe has given it it's name.<br />
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<h3>
Preparations</h3>
The stream pass by some cities which allowed me to resupply along the way. This gave a lot of freedom in the planning process. I did not calculate how long it would take, I decided to not be in a hurry and just paddle as far as I felt like each day.<br />
The time between deciding to do the trip and actually starting was very short, a little under one week. And I did not have all of my outdoor gear at school so some things were just improvised or simply left out. I dried a lot of food before heading out; potatoes, carrots, zucchini, paprika, onion, mushrooms and other vegetables. I only ate vegeterian food, and except the butter most things were vegan. Oat milk for example lasts much longer in warm temperature than milk product and works just as well in food.<br />
I printed the maps from http://kso2.lantmateriet.se It's a free service where you can print your own maps of pretty much anywhere in Sweden. Unfortunately I only had access to a black and white printer so sometimes during the trip I had trouble navigating.<br />
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<h3>
The trip</h3>
<h4>
The rainy beginning</h4>
I started in east Dalälven and reached the meeting point already the first day. It was a day of constant rain, not an excellent start of a trip but I didn't get let down by the rain. And later I would have a lot of benefit (and some trouble) from the high water level the rain made. I also had to portage past the first dam this first day. There was about one dam per day to pass, but sometimes more. During the whole trip I portaged 14 dams.<br />
I spent the first night in an abandoned storage shed. It was nice to have a dry place to sleep at after a day of constant rain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misery campfire after a rainy day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The abandoned storage shed I slept in first night.</td></tr>
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<h4>
The city of portaging</h4>
The next day was also raining but in the evening it had stopped. I reached the first city now, Borlänge. I spoke to a man which explained that the name is old Swedish and means "carrying far". And that proved to be very true. The city had 4 dams. I did the first dam, which was just a short portage and then set up camp in a small forest on an old dirt road.<br />
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The next day was probably the heaviest during the whole trip. The first two dams were not too bad, quite short portages. But the last one was a lot worse. It was a total of over 3 km because the riverbank was blocked by a sewage plant. I first carried my packing and managed to hitch hike to the bridge where I was planning to end the portage. Then on the way back to get the canoe I put up my thumb again... and surprisingly got picked up by the same guy again. So then I portaged the canoe all the way. It was windy so the canoe caught wind all the time while carrying, When I got the chance I used the areas with high grass in the ditch to pull it instead of carrying on my back. I found it to be nice to alternate between the two a bit. At least it was fun to see the look on the psaserby's faces when I walked around in the city with a canoe on my head.<br />
When the canoe was in place I decided to go into town and get some new boots, this far I had only used my working shoes which were in very bad condition, since I didn't have my tripping shoes at school. My shoes had gotten totally soaked by the rain and were also falling apart. So I bought a cheap pair of rubber boots which I used for the rest of the trip. It wasn't ideal but it was much better than the wet ones. I didn't want anything with lining as those never dry.<br />
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<h4>
Lost in the forest and thunderstorm</h4>
The next few days were quite straight forward. The weather was better. It was a bit windy some days but I soon got into the rythm of waking up between 4 and 6 before the wind got strong and then setting camp between 2 and 5 when it was too windy to be comfortable to paddle.<br />
Up until this point the stream had been narrow all the way, never widening into lakes or such. But on the 5th day I reached the first lake, close to Hedemora. By now the water level was very high and the land in this area was very low. This in combination with my bad maps and that I didn't have a compass made it hard to navigate. I decided to take a shortcut in a narrow canal between the mainland and an island. But it was hard to find where it started because the forest was flooded. I thought I had found it and started following it through the forest. But soon lost it and realized I was just paddling between the trees and because of the cloudy weather couldn't really tell directions.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High water level...</td></tr>
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Eventually I got out again and decided to paddle around the island. But when I did so I found the canal and it was quite big because of the high water level. It was however blocked by some roads which I could easily pass because they were flooded too.<br />
But now the wind got a lot stronger really quickly and I see some big dark clouds in the sky. It has kind of been building up for this the whole day but at one point it's no longer possible to paddle. I set camp at a big green field already around 2 o'clock. The thunderstorm and rain comes in th evening and is really close. But when it passed by it left one of the most amazing rainbows I've seen!<br />
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<h4>
Halfway point, party and a change in nature</h4>
Next day I reach the city Avesta where I resupply for the rest of the trip and also buy a compass which I realized I will need. It's the last city I pass during the trip. It also has 2 dams which I do in one portage, quite far but not as heavy as the one in borlänge. In the afternoon I reach Sjöviks folkhögskola which is the school I did my 2 years bushcraft program at. I've been looking forward to reaching this point as it's the halfway mark of my trip. And after this the nature gets much more wild and untouched. The bushcraft students are still there and have just got back from a two and a half week paddle trip. It's their penultimate day and they celebrate it by visiting one of the teachers and having a barbecue party which I join. It was very nice to get some real food and meeting friends and my old teachers again.<br />
The start of the second part of the trip was amazing. There was no wind and just a very thin layer of clouds, just enough so the sun wouldn't burn or blind me. And I was familiar with the area I paddled this day since we did trips here from Sjövik. From here on the river widened a lot and it was more like paddling in lakes than a river. The first rapids also started showing up now. I could paddle all of them except one. It's called Balen and is famous for it's huge monster wave which now with this much water was 1-2m high and followed by 2 more nearly as big waves. I decided to do it the safe way and portaged past it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balen</td></tr>
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This day I did close to 60km (37 miles), it shows how much knowing the waters and good weather do for the speed. In the evening I set camp at a windbreak and baked bread in the pot.<br />
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<h4>
The last challenging dams and the sea</h4>
The last days I did about 2 dams a day and they were quite challenging. The portages were not very far. But the riverbanks were artificial, high and steep and the water flowed fast. To get ashore I had to hold the canoe in a rope while I carefully unloaded the packing. Putting it in a bad spot would make it roll down into the river. Then I had to somehow pull the canoe up. This was also challenging to do without damaging it.<br />
Then I had to do everything again to get it back in water below the dam. I first put the canoe in, and if I had something to tie it to I did so while loading it. At one place I was a bit careless. I had stored the map inside my rolled up sleeping mattress and while loading the canoe I tried to throw the sleeping mattress into the canoe, but missed and it was caught by the stream. So I had to hurry and pack the last things then untied the canoe and jumped in. I managed to catch it but the maps had gotten wet, but was still readable.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old dam</td></tr>
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One day I got into another thunderstorm. I was paddling on open water with just a few islands around. So I went on shore on the closest one which had a small cabin. At first I just waited behind the cabin taking cover from the rain but when it started raining more and seemed it wouldn't stop I went up to it and checked the door. The door to the veranda was unlocked so I could go inside and wait out the storm. It was all white and clean in there so I felt very uncomfortable. When the storm ended I wrote a message thanking the owners and left.<br />
The last dam, in Älvkarleby was easy to get ashore at and from the water it looked like a quite short walk. But when I went to take a look there was a huge waterfall behind it with a long steep rapid following it. I realized it would be a long portage so I asked a pair I met (Magnus and Ulrika which would be the quickest way past it. They explained and in the end they even said they could help me carry. So me and Magnus took the canoe and Ulrika took the gear. Not having to go back up to get the canoe saved me a lot of energy and time. They were very helpful and told me this was the last dam and that the rest of the way would be a breeze.<br />
And they were right, the river got narrow again, much like the beginning of my trip and the water was flowing fast. I just had to sit back and go with the flow, literally.<br />
Reaching the sea was a great experience. It was a feeling of relief and freedom but also a scary feeling. The sea is big and wild compared to the predictable river.<br />
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This trip was a great experience! I didn't put much time into planning and preparing the trip. I just did the necessary stuff and went out. It was amazing to be alone for this long time. Lots of time to think and reflect and I got much closer to nature than I usually do on trips. I really learned to predict the weather and could sometimes go ashore even before the wind arrived.</div>
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And finally some more photos from the trip.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing construction!</td></tr>
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-71846487728528252972015-05-04T11:00:00.000-07:002015-05-04T11:00:00.675-07:00Ten paddles project part three (last)So, time for the last update on the project.The paddles are hanging from the roof and waiting for the oil to dry. And I'm even too tired to enjoy being done with them. But I think it's nice to get some distance now, then I'll enjoy them much more later.<br />
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Since my last post I've formed the grips, smoothed the surface and oiled them. And I've learned a lot from this. Especially how to make, prepare and use cabinet scrapers. But let's take the grips first.<br />
I did most of the forming using spokeshave, knife and gouge. I used the spokeshave where I could then used the knife in the notches and the gouge for wide concave surfaces, like the fat part you grab on the grip.<br />
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Roughly forming the grip went really fast, much quicker than I had thought it would. But in return the fine tuning of everything took longer. I saved the shaft for last since a square shaft makes it much easier to clamp the paddle to the workbench.</div>
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As I mentioned I used a cabinet scraper to smooth the blade. I made this myself from an old felling saw. I used an angle grinder to cut it out roughly then fine tuned it on the bench grinder. Then just followed the standard sharpening procedure for cabinet scrapers. It worked very well, I gave it a slightly convex edge on one side and a concave on the other. And after using it and playing around a bit I found that I could attach it to an old felling saw handle for much more comfortable and effective use.</div>
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For rounding the shaft I made and used a tool described in Graham Warrens's book <i>Canoe paddles - a complete guide to making your own. </i>It's a small plank with two pegs sticking down and between them pencils marking the lines. The proportions should be 7:10:7 to get the lines in the right place. Then I just held it angled and drew the lines on the shaft. I also added one pencil in the middle to mark the middle line at the same time. But in the end it didn't work very well to draw all three lines at the same time so I just knocked down the pencil I wanted to draw with and repeated for each line.</div>
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Another very useful tool I made for the rounding of the shaft was a cabinet scraper shaped after the shaft. After 8-siding and 16-siding the shaft I just used this scraper to get it round. Unfortunately I didn't make this until after I finished half of the paddles. So the first ones didn't get the same perfect roundness.</div>
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I used sandpaper on the modern design ones. I started with 120 grit, then 240 and finally 600. I wet them to raise the fibers then repeated with 240 and 600 grit a few times.</div>
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Finally I oiled them with cold pressed raw oxidized linseed oil, just rubbing it in with my hand, then did a few strokes with 600 to remove any raised grains and wiped them off as much as I could with paper towels.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cozy workplace. The blanket helps to protect the paddle when it's clamped.</td></tr>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-68294876168389325492015-04-19T07:35:00.000-07:002015-04-19T07:35:13.574-07:00Ten paddles project part twoThe third week has just finished and to be honest I'm really worn out.<br />
This week I've laminated and cut out the modern design blades as well as started the tedious task of thinning down the blades. I realized I had to find a fast and effective way to take off material. But I'm set on not using machines for the rest of the project now. After experimenting with spokeshave, axe, jack plane (with a round blade edge) and travisher I settled down with first axing off as much as I could and then using a smoothing plane. But on some blades the grain direction was just completely wrong, and turning the paddle upside down and axing didn't work so I used the jack plane for those.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoE5Tf8kmb9RdMukKT0iBOE4l1ehccl0Xcl0m__yjHF_QfbLJdC-xYOB6caByVW0SgwcmkoAF208u-DAqm_J-J9-2WgbOJAhQSrQLwe1vsvCbcH7bn-kEOpXoR6KrPl3poxeHd78jneEeh/s1600/2015-04-16+7779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoE5Tf8kmb9RdMukKT0iBOE4l1ehccl0Xcl0m__yjHF_QfbLJdC-xYOB6caByVW0SgwcmkoAF208u-DAqm_J-J9-2WgbOJAhQSrQLwe1vsvCbcH7bn-kEOpXoR6KrPl3poxeHd78jneEeh/s1600/2015-04-16+7779.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little "backrest" on the chopping block really helped with the cutting.</td></tr>
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I soon realized I needed a better way to strap the wood. Using clamps took too much time. After speaking with my teacher we got the idea to use a trough cutting plank. It's a thick plank with holes for plugs that keep the object in place. The trough plank is meant to be used standing astride and cutting with an adze. But I put it on a bench instead, so I could sit on the paddle while planing and use the plugs to keep it in place. This works wonders and I think I'll make one specifically for paddles in the future.<br />
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Now I'm taking one days rest then I'll thin down the blade on the last two then start working on the grips and smoothing the surface. There's still quite a bit left but I feel I can start seeing the goal on the horizon.</div>
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-31947607421885062302015-04-14T10:04:00.001-07:002015-04-14T10:12:21.332-07:00Bushcraft & canoeing course at Sjöviks folkhögskolaI've mentioned earlier that I spent 2 years doing a bushcraft course in Sweden with lots of canoeing and handicraft. Now it's the time of the year when people starts looking for a school and I thought I should let you know what this one is all about.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building igloos in north Sweden (Jokkmokk)</td></tr>
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It's official name is "<a href="http://www.sjovik.eu/utbildning/fhl/" target="_blank">Friluftsliv, hantverk och ledarskap</a>" (Bushcraft, handicraft and leadership). It's a one to two years course mostly focused on bushcraft but where you make much of your gear yourself. The first year focuses mostly on the bushcraft and handicraft parts while on the second year the main focus is on the leadership.<br />
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If you take the course you'll very soon realize it's a very philosophical course, very far from the plastic outdoor life (or rather outdoor sports) most people do nowadays. You do it simple but not primitive. It's not a survival course, it teaches you how to live well in nature without hurting it. You don't use gas stoves and all food is made on open fire. And speaking of food, you buy raw ingredients and learn to dry them yourself before every trip. Since the fire is a central part of the trips synthetic materials won't work (and they hurt nature too). So it's all about natural materials in clothes, tarps/tents, and kitchenware. You'll notice this has many other benefits, you get closer to nature, your clothes are quiet and the rain don't sound like the sky is falling apart at night. Summarizing it you could say nothing new is taught at this course, what you learn is to live close to nature like your ancestors.<br />
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The course starts at the end of august, usually with a trip of up to ten days starting already the first day. During my two years this was a hiking trip in the mountains. This trip is prepared by the second years so you just have to tag along. After that it's about one trip a month (usually 5 day trips), 2 canoe trips in fall, then a few skiing trips in winter, one amazing skiing/hiking trip in the transition from winter to spring and then a wonderful canoe trip of close to 3 weeks in may.<br />
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You also get the option to live in a tipi during your year. I did this both years and it was an amazing experience. I fell asleep to the sound of the sparkling fire and woke up every morning to small birds flying into the tipi. And when I went outside the tipi the first thing I saw was the mist over the nearby lake. After my years in tipi I still can't sleep quite well inside and it happens that I just take my reindeer hide and sleeping bag and go sleep outside.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBkbvbgD4gx7No1IA5RxsaUJpqyM6xH4C8n7WAo1tyiHGBebaq49YGfs1plnb1I2tMEgTsXDKfz_oHHWXUuinZW9uiEYlfQQxZFNQqnhQbLBBywpH1SK1CUAEmF0tYjV3msbX6CW3WPjU/s1600/tipi-aurora.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBkbvbgD4gx7No1IA5RxsaUJpqyM6xH4C8n7WAo1tyiHGBebaq49YGfs1plnb1I2tMEgTsXDKfz_oHHWXUuinZW9uiEYlfQQxZFNQqnhQbLBBywpH1SK1CUAEmF0tYjV3msbX6CW3WPjU/s1600/tipi-aurora.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One amazing experience I had was an aurora at night outside my tipi. The only people who saw it was us living in tipi.</td></tr>
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The handicrafts, as I mentioned are focused on natural materials. We built canvas canoes, paddles and skis, we felted gloves and socks, sewed sleeping bags, backpacks, anoraks, tarps and tents, knitted and much more, too much for me to remember it all. They give you very free hands to decide for yourself what to make.<br />
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There are two teachers, one is Bosse, who is the main teacher for the course. He's a very experienced paddler and canoe builder and a great teacher with lots of bushcraft knowledge.<br />
The other teacher is Katha, a German woman full of energy who really knows how to lift the mood in the class. She teaches us the textile handicrafts and joins some trips here and there.<br />
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The second year is optional and gives a lot more freedom. During this year you focus on your own projects and work more independently. You also act as a leader for the first years during the trips. You make the important decisions and keep the group together. You might have to solve conflicts between group members, decide the path to take or when to make lunch. In my second year my big project was to build my own canvas canoe. But I also got time over to sew a backpack, make a hiking trip in Morocco and make many paddles.<br />
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The school has a very nice friendly atmosphere and also offers courses in music (folk, jazz, pop & rock and vocal), textile and traditional log house building among others.<br />
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At least during my years there, knowing Swedish was not a prerequisite. But an intention to learn is important and it makes your life a lot easier if you know some Swedish when you arrive.<br />
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If you are interested you can find some more information (in Swedish) and contact information here:<br />
<a href="http://www.sjovik.eu/utbildning/fhl/">http://www.sjovik.eu/utbildning/fhl/</a><br />
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Some more pictures:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me poling up a river</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foldable Swedish saw, I have no idea why it's called a SWEDISH saw.</td></tr>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-50212689059955893452015-04-08T13:19:00.001-07:002015-04-08T13:19:31.879-07:00Ten paddles project part oneI'm now nearing the end of my woodworking education and to sum it all up each student gets to make a final project. Some make spoons, others make bowls, a cabinet or wood burning. For me it came quite natural to make canoe paddles. And thinking practically I saw the chance to both make my paddle making more effective and hopefully make some money at the same time. So I decided to make this a serial production project. All in all I have a little less than 5 weeks. I calculated that I can carve a paddle from an ash plank in one day. So 10 paddles would be 2 weeks of carving. That gives 3 weeks for drawing the designs, writing the documentation and oiling and varnishing.<br />
But the school I'm attending is not just a woodworking school. It's all about traditional woodworking (but they do let us use some machines). So I wanted some kind of twist and decided to make half of the paddles in a more native design aimed at deep water paddling and half in a more modern design aimed at whitewater. Though both are compromises of what I personally think is good.<br />
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I'm now at the second week, I have decided on 2 designs. The native one is an ottertail with a grip which is something like a merge between a pear grip and a northwoods grip. The modern one is a wide and short Sugar island with a T-grip. I differ the construction in them a bit. The native one is a one piece paddle which I will not sand and for finish I'll only use raw oxidated linseed oil. The modern one has a 3-piece grip and 5-piece blade to save material and lessen the chance for warping. I'll sand them till my hands bleed and give them an oil finish with a varnished blade. I'm gluing with polyurethane, I considered using epoxy but it blunts the tools really fast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho43H7lJudO2HbbMwS0nFFfB3bAXJsoduJTxmVUailYkZp5hhX42QU2x563eUkxjqc_iuV1_WO6I42GifN0cHetISEVEeXpXaM-LcEOqkTDnThmZWw0si196wROwE4QM42HhzqK-zhqZbN/s1600/2015-04-08+4776.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho43H7lJudO2HbbMwS0nFFfB3bAXJsoduJTxmVUailYkZp5hhX42QU2x563eUkxjqc_iuV1_WO6I42GifN0cHetISEVEeXpXaM-LcEOqkTDnThmZWw0si196wROwE4QM42HhzqK-zhqZbN/s1600/2015-04-08+4776.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My paddle-forms with adjustable shaft length.</td></tr>
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I made the designs in Adobe Illustrator as described <a href="http://paddlereflections.blogspot.se/2015/01/designing-paddle-in-adobe-illustrator.html" target="_blank">in a previous post</a>. I printed them and taped the papers together then glued them onto plywood. I was very careful here to get the forms completely symmetrical. I saw a track for the shaft in the blade to make them easily adjustable on the wood. I still needed a straightedge to keep them completely in line but it works very well and made the marking out much easier.<br />
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My initial idea was to make the modern blades in 3 pieces. But my planks were too narrow to get out 2 such wide pieces in one length so I decided to make it 5 pieces. But just gluing 5 pieces of ash together felt like it would look boring and amateurish so I wanted to make 2 small dark stripes along the center. But I didn't have any dark wood. But then I remembered something I learned a few weeks ago. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermally_modified_wood" target="_blank">Thermally modified wood</a>. What I did was take the pieces and put them in the oven at 200 degrees for 1-2 hours. This makes them dark, a lot darker actually, and not just on the surface... all the way through. I'm not sure exactly how it affects the strength of the wood. But as they will be laminated in the middle of the blade I don't think it's a problem.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlIyu912zAAbrYoP9v69El6cAtGfKs-hEg9fqNtlLR7Dr4JVb0J-XeEUJ-15QPGnwqBHkifrlgXPMTq1q4PtYjlhO2pFAR6HNEdDNKnZHWpLxM_a7D4vlP1Zh1EA6BLR4oXFtvft5Ki0r/s1600/2015-04-07+4771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlIyu912zAAbrYoP9v69El6cAtGfKs-hEg9fqNtlLR7Dr4JVb0J-XeEUJ-15QPGnwqBHkifrlgXPMTq1q4PtYjlhO2pFAR6HNEdDNKnZHWpLxM_a7D4vlP1Zh1EA6BLR4oXFtvft5Ki0r/s1600/2015-04-07+4771.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barely fitting in the oven....</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before and after being in the oven. The dark one in the middle was on top and got a little too much heat. Also the side closer to the door is a bit brighter due to lower temperature.</td></tr>
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So a summary of where I am right now: I've planed and marked out the 5 native designs. One of them is a stand up paddle I intend to use for myself. It feels insanely long... I give that one a thicker shaft to lessen the flex a bit.<br />
I have cut out and planed all the pieces for the modern ones and glued one of them.<br />
By the end of this week I intend to have glued up all paddles and cut them out.<br />
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My feelings so far for this project is that it's fun and I'm learning a lot. But I've used machines a lot this first week which is a bit depressing. I kind of regret not making the paddles by hand instead. Cutting my own tree, splitting it and carving it with an axe and crooked knife would feel much more satisfying and result in much stronger paddles. At least after I cut out the forms it's hand tools all the way till the end!Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-11159862455145786112015-03-26T06:20:00.000-07:002015-03-27T09:44:07.033-07:002 old paddles saved from getting burned<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My classmate found these 2 beauties in an old barn and saved them from getting burned in a big clean out.<br />
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One of them seem to be a child model as the blade-area is very small and the shaft is shorter than on the other. What confuses me though is that the grip and shaft is way too big for a child.<br />
The other seems to be an ordinary beaver tail.<br />
From what I can tell they are both made with a pine core and laminated spruce on the grip and blade with a worn out varnish finish. I guess the material choice was just because pine and spruce are easy to come by here and it's easier to find long knot-free pieces of pine than spruce.<br />
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Since I can't find any sign on either of them they're hard to identify. But there hasn't been a lot of commercial paddles made in Sweden so I made some research. I assumed they are made commercially as the lamination on one of the grips is quite advanced for an amateur without proper tools.<br />
In <a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011024884759/?query=paddel&pos=9&count=36" target="_blank">Swedens digital museum</a> I found photos of <a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011024884759/?query=paddel&pos=9&count=36" target="_blank">very similar paddles made by ABC-fabrikerna</a> which made sports and outdoor gear between 1909 and 1982. The grip lamination seems to be the same as on one of the paddles I got. The spine has the same sharp edge as mine and the grip shape and overall "feel" matches well too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of the grips. I used the lamination on the small one to identify the paddles.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcaZaS5xwLQx44JymyvmldwqINyorX-ucMFGYnq7vauNkVlOFqjNq3-rTZKp8Z3QkF4MW5IWMNe9MssjtCmrO4xK9pOK3ImMfmzeSnAOqKh6PGk0G_vH7HnU1H0kC4ahVuj4q7A5P2x9N/s1600/2015-03-26+4732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcaZaS5xwLQx44JymyvmldwqINyorX-ucMFGYnq7vauNkVlOFqjNq3-rTZKp8Z3QkF4MW5IWMNe9MssjtCmrO4xK9pOK3ImMfmzeSnAOqKh6PGk0G_vH7HnU1H0kC4ahVuj4q7A5P2x9N/s1600/2015-03-26+4732.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The spine is very sharp on the big paddle. Some of the paddles from ABC-fabrikerna seem to have been made this way.</td></tr>
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Though the ones in the museum is made from pine. But it could be a miss-identification on my part. Or maybe they used both spruce and pine.<br />
Hopefully I get a chance to visit that museum in summer when I work with kayak rental nearby.<br />
<br />
One of the paddles had an interesting detail on top of the grip. I'm speculating in if it could either be a rest from a lathe if the shaft was turned, or a hole where a metal piece have been stuck in for balancing the paddle. It looks like a drilled hole with a wooden plug. The other paddle has something similar but smaller.<br />
<br />
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If you know anything about these paddles please let me know!<br />
<br />
While researching these paddles I got some insight into Swedish canoe history. I find it really interesting to see how the skills of canoe building have spread and it gives me a sort of stronger feeling of connection to the Swedish canoe history. As we are not many who build and paddle wooden canoes here anymore.<br />
The man who introduced and started building open canoes in Sweden was Harry Macfie. Who spent over 20 years in Canada as a gold washer, trapper and mining engineer. While there he learned the art of building wood canvas canoes.<br />
He came back to Sweden and 1927 he started building wooden canvas canoes in his workshop at home. His canoes soon became famous as real works of art.<br />
1938 the production was taken over by Mårten Gedda after Macfie sold the rights to ABC-fabrikerna.<br />
ABC-fabrikerna produced hundreds of canvas canoes a year for many years. So when you do find an old Swedish canvas canoe it is almost always a Gedda or in rare cases a Macfie.<br />
Today I only know of 2 people who make and sell canvas canoes. One is my old teacher <a href="http://www.trakanot.se/Svenska_trakanoter/hem.html" target="_blank">Bo Weslien</a> who mainly makes his own model called Lom, which is an amazing solo model with maneuverability unlike anything else I paddled. And the other is Magnus Carlson who also works as an outdoor teacher but builds canoes in his free time, mainly Prospectors.<br />
Ove Larsson, another teacher (what's with teachers building canoes?) builds canoes with his 9th grade students and holds weekly canoe and kayak building courses.Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-44312650000497933742015-03-01T03:13:00.001-08:002015-03-01T03:13:32.203-08:00Paddle project: Experimental grip design<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA82mhfLAnTvmcuZ48SL_AWvHynukpL4ImbjOxBkZklLe2788HChlrRVKMo0n7NkFWElU-WvX3-dQ5sUmVLQ-l6i2nCtEJ7BKvtjqWHrku7hpIMUYkXmXyKdOrOH_9wuN4zkp1hr6c2ppd/s1600/2015-02-28+4650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA82mhfLAnTvmcuZ48SL_AWvHynukpL4ImbjOxBkZklLe2788HChlrRVKMo0n7NkFWElU-WvX3-dQ5sUmVLQ-l6i2nCtEJ7BKvtjqWHrku7hpIMUYkXmXyKdOrOH_9wuN4zkp1hr6c2ppd/s1600/2015-02-28+4650.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
I put a lot of thought into this paddle. It was on the sketch board for a few weeks before I was pleased enough with the design to start building it.<br />
My idea was to make a paddle with a kind of north woods grip for adjustable length. But allowing a more comfortable grip by tilting the hand a bit. At first I worked with ideas of a symmetrical grip. But then I realized an asymmetrical grip will give more specific length options and a stronger construction. I'm still waiting for the oil to dry so I haven't taken it for a sweep yet.<br />
Shaft length: 80cm (31.5")<br />
Blade: 74cm (29")<br />
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All the way through the middle of the grip are 9mm (1/3") of unbroken fibers for strength. And to further strengthen the grip there is some extra material on the opposite sides of the concavities.<br />
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Each grip is approx 9 cm (3.5 inches) and the hand comfortably slides over to a grip on the other side when I flip the paddle for for example an Indian stroke.<br />
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I couldn't get a good photo of this. But the grips are a bit thicker than the concavities, which gives a more relaxing grip.<br />
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Holding the top grip one way is nice for distance paddling.<br />
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And flipped the other when you need a more firm grip of the paddle.<br />
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And holding the side-grips. IMO the most comfortable way to use this paddle.<br />
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I did not put as much thought into the blade as into the grip. But I wanted a form which has the same feel. It turned out as a curvy design. The narrow part got a bit more narrow than I had planned because of a malfunction in the band saw. But I think it still turned out okay.<br />
The wide part in front should give some extra power for steering strokes, while hopefully still being quite relaxing to paddle forward with because of the narrow middle.Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-1803950362961912832015-02-21T10:19:00.000-08:002015-02-21T10:21:42.522-08:00Living with the forestA trip to the forest is pretty much the same as visiting another country. You could book an all inclusive trip to a southern warm country, eat nice food, sleep in a luxury hotel and go swimming at the beach. Then when you get home you can tell everyone what the country looks like.<br />
But that's all, you haven't talked to the locals, you haven't tried their food, you don't know how they live, how their homes smell, what they do in their free time. All you know is what you have seen through a window made by the travel agency.<br />
If you instead go there with no plans, maybe <a href="http://www.couchsurfing.com/" target="_blank">couch surfing</a>, speaking to the locals, rent a bike, leave the tourist streets in the cities. You will get a much deeper connection to the country. You will experience it with all your senses.<br />
In a similar manner we make a choice when we visit the forest. Do we want to go there and look at it, or do we want to experience it?<br />
<h3>
The rythm of nature</h3>
When I was younger I always slept in tent on trips. I felt safe inside the tent-walls, keeping the scary night outside. It took a long time before I realized that I don't need to be afraid of the night. It is part of nature. So if I do a trip and hide from the night, I miss a part of the experience, a part of the nature I'm there to experience. Nowadays I prefer to just sleep under a cotton tarp. There's no walls so I can hear all the sounds, smell the air and watch the stars when I fall asleep. And then wake up to the sunrise, completely following the rhythm of nature.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e1z2YV-OxYHnkHPWJxtRGsQnFSNJfmDuNO1yYC-Ij1z0AaUXEkJi1J4d3pakkzrAhyphenhyphenZAIr2j1dAVSjtCbPk_Z7GLNXpr2F1BC4AVR6T0BqTmWw5FkA8kiO9vPFW1ex4MpP3u90of5NHB/s1600/2012-10-12+3569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e1z2YV-OxYHnkHPWJxtRGsQnFSNJfmDuNO1yYC-Ij1z0AaUXEkJi1J4d3pakkzrAhyphenhyphenZAIr2j1dAVSjtCbPk_Z7GLNXpr2F1BC4AVR6T0BqTmWw5FkA8kiO9vPFW1ex4MpP3u90of5NHB/s1600/2012-10-12+3569.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An amazing sunrise, easily missed if you sleep in a tent, disconnected from the world around you.</td></tr>
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On early winter trips it's not uncommon to go to bed at 5 pm, and then sleep for 16 hours. It may sound crazy now when you read this by your computer. But when you're out there it feels completely natural. The sun sets at 3 pm, then you make dinner and then it's too dark to do anything else. You could bring a flashlight. But then you disturb the rhythm and lose a part of the experience.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSErqhuD-dYxEq3zNoGSG2qmnsx8ptM7wr52LHWRV_2yPtj1ZdDwoBAck0rAd08MoUzDGk_uoJMOfx_fQoL_myJSQGpioXU-pNofXO-VCOZTOJBBsZWKWY-Yh0FC08OUlzAcWyaKjuDgGm/s1600/2013-05-18+3992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSErqhuD-dYxEq3zNoGSG2qmnsx8ptM7wr52LHWRV_2yPtj1ZdDwoBAck0rAd08MoUzDGk_uoJMOfx_fQoL_myJSQGpioXU-pNofXO-VCOZTOJBBsZWKWY-Yh0FC08OUlzAcWyaKjuDgGm/s1600/2013-05-18+3992.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A camp that is part of nature.</td></tr>
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<h3>
The forests burning energy</h3>
Gathering stones. Building a tripod. Sawing and chopping wood. Carefully preparing the fireplace. And finally, the magical act of starting the fire. Watching it burn is like hypnosis. It's the forests energy turning to light and heat. It's quiet and relaxing and will let you cook your food, dry your clothes and keep you warm for the night. The forest is giving you all this for free.<br />
Now, imagine if you had brought a gas stove instead. It makes a lot of sound, don't give any warmth and your food will be done in seconds. Are you not here for a relaxing experience?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8ysEp3NRPER2ffcyb38ZgZOQWBH4GVekf7f0UdROhnXzgGgbCmtdDNohD8v_1vYDOFae7vv7IOXWWmJu1oEw8herd0LM9_FY-zJ9usIW3pwGKGnxnPrrFBzFEVIj06BnNiPXn2xohwO8/s1600/2013-05-18+3980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8ysEp3NRPER2ffcyb38ZgZOQWBH4GVekf7f0UdROhnXzgGgbCmtdDNohD8v_1vYDOFae7vv7IOXWWmJu1oEw8herd0LM9_FY-zJ9usIW3pwGKGnxnPrrFBzFEVIj06BnNiPXn2xohwO8/s1600/2013-05-18+3980.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take your time to build a nice fireplace, even for a lunch during travel. It makes the experience so much more enjoyable.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Connecting through your gear and tools</h3>
I'm out paddling with a wooden paddle, one which I made myself. I know every part of it. I chose the material and formed it after my body and paddling style. I can feel it moving in the water, it tells me what is happening under the surface. Is it deep or shallow? Are there any currents? Seaweed? It's like an extension of my body, just like the canoe which I also made myself. And I know, if I lose my paddle or canoe, they will go back to nature, back to the circle of life.<br />
I don't need an ultra light carbon fiber paddle or a bent shaft super fast paddle. I'm not out here to race. And I don't want gear which is made on the cost of the very nature I visit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtptCrpz7E9d8c-riONkipYf5jvUtFROMso0vjDl4l8ZSWhMlfJJ8Nn50wlnXD5tei_s7w_JNFQ29tJo19sEPF4nkDUXb2D_Oi2QtvMIvinf3YVUljKzqjb_WqOHmCBLIScPN-00BeSHuX/s1600/2013-05-23+4080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtptCrpz7E9d8c-riONkipYf5jvUtFROMso0vjDl4l8ZSWhMlfJJ8Nn50wlnXD5tei_s7w_JNFQ29tJo19sEPF4nkDUXb2D_Oi2QtvMIvinf3YVUljKzqjb_WqOHmCBLIScPN-00BeSHuX/s1600/2013-05-23+4080.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How could you be in a hurry away from here?</td></tr>
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For me the material creates a flow. A gore-tex jacket is just like the tent walls, cutting me off from nature, while a cotton jacket lets it flow trough. The cotton also gets along better with the fire. A piece of ember usually won't even make a hole, unlike the synthetic jacket which melts right away. By wearing fast drying instead of waterproof clothes you get to experience the rain and river much closer and you don't need to worry about getting wet.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hiNW0mQJKd7jwZEPW0tySo5KgCP3WKQzDXSTZ9wriqwCUNxDws8-g7sVjBIOwf2yTXSiImUkNXHY2SRaUI7uZ35k6T7Y4T9K0NTBUrkC7PX2jQyJT2yG0_uH3FfhR8WoJaU9MjW3FUcf/s1600/2014-05-24+4414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hiNW0mQJKd7jwZEPW0tySo5KgCP3WKQzDXSTZ9wriqwCUNxDws8-g7sVjBIOwf2yTXSiImUkNXHY2SRaUI7uZ35k6T7Y4T9K0NTBUrkC7PX2jQyJT2yG0_uH3FfhR8WoJaU9MjW3FUcf/s1600/2014-05-24+4414.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The moment you learn to not fear and take cover from the nature is the moment you will really feel freedom on your trips.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETfNgkNRHG0c-pgDmaK5OE1au-WIo9uH9DN50xxA9I3OswPjEcbwjROzMUSJxcz2FPMl5_ZoitOgH2uFirtYMb8VUuAHsL9l1AgE9s7f86mAK9hh3dGQCbMdfTybNM_o39kp9C-tVpEva/s1600/2013-05-21+4053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETfNgkNRHG0c-pgDmaK5OE1au-WIo9uH9DN50xxA9I3OswPjEcbwjROzMUSJxcz2FPMl5_ZoitOgH2uFirtYMb8VUuAHsL9l1AgE9s7f86mAK9hh3dGQCbMdfTybNM_o39kp9C-tVpEva/s1600/2013-05-21+4053.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Take your time, relax, make a pizza!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFuMxCYBN6ORQqiWa2rmBk24Xk-fx3Hc4-QKRiB8bZpC7JRuh_8ojTRV2t8rrvUNYy49WGYSFASiogD7g9nnCKJLL2lj6mNVbZqOCXdbkRepQdqcRTGQsUYkoXc_Lk84JqSNCnqNoyWugj/s1600/2013-06-22+4212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFuMxCYBN6ORQqiWa2rmBk24Xk-fx3Hc4-QKRiB8bZpC7JRuh_8ojTRV2t8rrvUNYy49WGYSFASiogD7g9nnCKJLL2lj6mNVbZqOCXdbkRepQdqcRTGQsUYkoXc_Lk84JqSNCnqNoyWugj/s1600/2013-06-22+4212.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or anything else delicious!</td></tr>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-78614297776472318382015-02-19T02:05:00.002-08:002015-02-19T02:05:49.509-08:00Paddle project: Spear (pointy) blade paddle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdOVQqVDwEFzTz-sJ6_lFE10qCKlz7QYPXJnxeQNWN1DUkl_SBSxWs04zN4VsGI17f7sjE72ZobCBDj3wJwKxdalc5m9-t8BCGzFtpZnAayWIoxM4HFfuOubZ0mfiQIFkdKNDf-Vs-ByM/s1600/2014-11-30+7504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdOVQqVDwEFzTz-sJ6_lFE10qCKlz7QYPXJnxeQNWN1DUkl_SBSxWs04zN4VsGI17f7sjE72ZobCBDj3wJwKxdalc5m9-t8BCGzFtpZnAayWIoxM4HFfuOubZ0mfiQIFkdKNDf-Vs-ByM/s1600/2014-11-30+7504.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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The idea for this paddle came from a <a href="http://paddlemaking.blogspot.se/2013/01/etched-coast-salish-canoe-paddle.html" target="_blank">blog post</a> on another blog. What really caught me attention was the grip, I wanted to make something similar. But the end result actually isn't very similar at all. I got a lot of new ideas along the way. The slight difference in the wood color is because I finished the shaft and blade with a tar and oil mix. And the Grip with just raw pre-oxidated linseed oil.<br />
The reason for the spear blade was mainly because I had never paddled with one before. From what I have heard they were used for spearing fish and as weapons against other tribes. Murat, the owner of <a href="http://paddlemaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">the paddle making blog</a> told me they were used in Africa and Amazonia where the bottom is often muddy. If the blade gets stuck in the mud you just have to flip it and it gets loose. A normal blade is too wide to flip when it gets stuck.<br />
I have a theory as well, that by putting all the impacts in the middle, where the paddle is as thickest and where the fibers go all the way through the paddle, it won't breat as easily. A wide blade can get stuck between stones and split the blade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzA1lIKZIYBa-zJsEBuTLx6BNxOJ-4fWQs0_KKnEfh1hmhDc9x36NJggsZddGWPatDgf1MGA1mYzce9pdBDvb2nPMOm8LLXd-AtrwBUCOU1wgWoAPhMZBAjQG9GwvzJgaJx4KusvZy-s7/s1600/2014-11-30+7502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzA1lIKZIYBa-zJsEBuTLx6BNxOJ-4fWQs0_KKnEfh1hmhDc9x36NJggsZddGWPatDgf1MGA1mYzce9pdBDvb2nPMOm8LLXd-AtrwBUCOU1wgWoAPhMZBAjQG9GwvzJgaJx4KusvZy-s7/s1600/2014-11-30+7502.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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The shaft length is 64 cm (25") and the paddles overall length is 130cm (51"). The shaft tapers from a round shape by the grip to an oval shape towards the blade, for a good grip and better balance.</div>
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The surface is not sanded. I will go deeper into this in another blog post.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgco8v8ZHW0gjRKNk_T4h_tNGqW1Ke4dVYUe1KQy0UuxmLeC55taTmgIm6Q760x_uznJYHbyFLZ4rf-V6N94PhIBeDJpd6Az0ZFhOtcpfIpnsZcs1rlXCRzU_XS68UicrANrN65wno-hakT/s1600/2014-11-30+7501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgco8v8ZHW0gjRKNk_T4h_tNGqW1Ke4dVYUe1KQy0UuxmLeC55taTmgIm6Q760x_uznJYHbyFLZ4rf-V6N94PhIBeDJpd6Az0ZFhOtcpfIpnsZcs1rlXCRzU_XS68UicrANrN65wno-hakT/s1600/2014-11-30+7501.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></div>
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-45786024960662838322015-02-18T07:06:00.000-08:002015-02-22T05:43:00.974-08:00Some very good old canoeing clipsThere are some really good and very old canoeing clips out on the net. Here's a few I found extra interesting.<br />
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<h4>
Canoeing by Reg Blomfield</h4>
Reg Blomfield, an amazing canoeist. Here he shows some breath taking and very creative tricks which I have not seen done by anyone else.<br />
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<h4>
American Indian Trappers, Traders and Canoe Builders ( 1946 )</h4>
Some very good birch bark canoe building footage as well as some interesting paddling clips. Notice the short paddle shafts and how they never move the grip hand above the eyes. This makes paddling much less straining in the long run.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://ytimg.googleusercontent.com/vi/ChiVvx_lLX0/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ChiVvx_lLX0?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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Grey owl (Archie Belaney)</h4>
The guy who fooled the world, he sucessfully pretended to be a native American. He literally lived with beavers, and was one of the first people realizing and speaking up about how we humans destroys the nature. There has also been made a <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0128239/" target="_blank">movie </a>about him which has some very nice canoeing scenes (with an actor who can actually paddle for once).<br />
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And this one I couldn't embed: <a href="https://www.nfb.ca/film/beaver_family/" target="_blank">https://www.nfb.ca/film/beaver_family/</a></div>
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Nipigon trails 1924</h4>
Some fantastic white water paddling and lineing scenes. As well as a bit of portage. Near the end you can see the stern paddler is for some reason splashing up a lot of water when paddling. I can't figure why, unless they were just playing around.<br />
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Voyageur - Adventure on the Mississagi, Ontario (1933)</h4>
More white water and some interesting scenes from a voyageus camp.<br />
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Ikwe</h4>
About a native girl who's forced to marry a trapper. Lots of interesting footage from native camps/villages.<br />
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<iframe height="320" src="https://www.nfb.ca/film/ikwe/embed/player" width="516"></iframe><br />
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<a href="http://www.nfb.ca/film/ikwe" target="_blank"><i>Ikwe</i></a> by <a href="https://www.nfb.ca/explore-all-directors/norma-bailey/" target="_blank" title="more films by Norma Bailey">Norma Bailey</a>, <a href="https://www.nfb.ca/" target="_blank">National Film Board of Canada</a><br />
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If you have sugestions for other clips please let me know an I'll add them :)<br />
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Edit: Added Nipigon trails and Voyageur clips suggested by <a href="http://paddlemaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Murat</a></div>
Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-25831409483795882602015-02-05T13:53:00.002-08:002015-02-19T02:08:49.802-08:00Crossing thin ice with a canoeThe thing about canoes that amazes me the most is how you can pass through pretty much any terrain with them. On lakes, rivers, sea, and on land. So why should we let some ice by the shore stop us from paddling?<br />
Last 2 years during my outdoor/friluftsliv course at <a href="http://www.sjovik.eu/utbildning/fhl/" target="_blank">Sjöviks folkhögskola</a> we got to practice crossing the ice by the shoreline and get out to the open water with the canoe. We did this by leaning on the canoe with one hand on each gunwhale and pushing it forward. This distributes our weight so we can get out on really thin ice. Here it helps to have chose with a good grip so you don't need to put much weight on the ice. The moment the ice breaks, we jump into the canoe. The ice always breaks under our feet, not under the canoe. And you can feel it starting to break under your feet so you have time to jump into the canoe.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk20HWTwaDLlTmjNeb3L-rs7J_BLSeh_MqkT4rWw7sAJnPDzfJfM4q5xJc3w7dCC-axaPiJA_jqbjP_4jOEMuKUEoRSYNTO_WOXQSeYLxvFXmJsZ4zwxT7Q4gHmfHQ13jepkgnsJSqVCz3/s1600/pushing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Canoeing on ice in winter" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk20HWTwaDLlTmjNeb3L-rs7J_BLSeh_MqkT4rWw7sAJnPDzfJfM4q5xJc3w7dCC-axaPiJA_jqbjP_4jOEMuKUEoRSYNTO_WOXQSeYLxvFXmJsZ4zwxT7Q4gHmfHQ13jepkgnsJSqVCz3/s1600/pushing.jpg" height="225" title="Canoeing on ice in winter" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two different methods of pushing the canoe. Another one is to go with one leg in the canoe and one on the ice. Photo by <a href="http://www.minck.be/" target="_blank">Matthias C<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">rommenlinck</span></a></td></tr>
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Now for the next part we have a special tool, it's a stick about 1m / 3 feet long with 2 points at the end, one going forward and one sticking out to the side. Traditionally these were used for log driving and you can sometimes find them on ebay or second hand (called pike pole). I believe there are modern versions too, but I think they lack the weight needed to get a good hit in the ice. With this you can either use it in the stern and push the canoe forward, or in the bow and pull it forward. And voila, you're out on open water!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKC6HcoV8mD706SkW-so1m9WTqbyuOEliOi90b2WRQE2Zc914kHv6MSeNTLx-q1gTPaEScKwUX97aaZP2Z_arHeZ7MrJL1wbKA-LkhQoB_nv9K62s9XX4y4QTTU1zPNIX29yluj-gZ3g5n/s1600/2015-02-05+7561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Pike pole for ice canoeing." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKC6HcoV8mD706SkW-so1m9WTqbyuOEliOi90b2WRQE2Zc914kHv6MSeNTLx-q1gTPaEScKwUX97aaZP2Z_arHeZ7MrJL1wbKA-LkhQoB_nv9K62s9XX4y4QTTU1zPNIX29yluj-gZ3g5n/s1600/2015-02-05+7561.jpg" height="265" title="Pike pole for ice canoeing." width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pole in action.</td></tr>
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I guess I don't need to say it, but this is dangerous and you should not do it alone. Since your weight is distributed on the whole canoe you can get very far out on thin ice. So it will be hard to get back to shore. Bring ice nails and a waterproof change of clothes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTXbXxf6npKdCTHAQE2xcQCcvGAeo-UtWuSglOUdzf2TWs8vOarRQs2U2QBTtgq22cWKwGSPKsYJ0BXAM4iEXHQ_L9ydCvl5dV8Krumcbu_OlHLGmQ_WJkMy5Xf4XZ6UlR8lpxlXH4FyG/s1600/rope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tie the canoe to a rope so a friend can pull you back if needed." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTXbXxf6npKdCTHAQE2xcQCcvGAeo-UtWuSglOUdzf2TWs8vOarRQs2U2QBTtgq22cWKwGSPKsYJ0BXAM4iEXHQ_L9ydCvl5dV8Krumcbu_OlHLGmQ_WJkMy5Xf4XZ6UlR8lpxlXH4FyG/s1600/rope.jpg" height="225" title="Tie the canoe to a rope so a friend can pull you back if needed." width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When practicing it's a good idea to have a rope in the canoe and a friend on shore who can pull you in if you get stuck. Photo by: <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><a href="http://www.minck.be/" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;" target="_blank">Matthias Crommenlinck</a></span></td></tr>
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I got lucky the other day and found an old pike pole cheap on the Swedish ebay. It was covered in rust and didn't have a shaft so I started off by removing the rust. A quick google search adviced me to soak it in vinegar over night. I did that, then brushed it with steel wool the next day and that did wonders. I had to repeat it a few times but now it looks like new. I finished it up with some linseed oil. The shaft I made from a slow grown spruce (about 50 years with a diameter of 5 cm / 2 inches) that I had lying around.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI_MCcO8hI8ALiWEYKbd8P_0qZedgCJKEWAoXGshks29PgzEwho13ZXb4o71_b0oAFxgmfJYQIq0cHB7OGrGeoBeklQqgL7GOSgrtgfZ5t2ZTof5U_pNwK0mrEFyzKq6XJ_2Vp475enq_/s1600/hooks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rust removal using vinegar." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI_MCcO8hI8ALiWEYKbd8P_0qZedgCJKEWAoXGshks29PgzEwho13ZXb4o71_b0oAFxgmfJYQIq0cHB7OGrGeoBeklQqgL7GOSgrtgfZ5t2ZTof5U_pNwK0mrEFyzKq6XJ_2Vp475enq_/s1600/hooks.jpg" height="137" title="Rust removal using vinegar." width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hook before and after vinegar treatment.</td></tr>
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And finally, some photos of my latest winter paddling.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjLNM520sqKPeG-O2jxM_t6dMi6Tk37tLFavgSMSvo_9l2H4nXW0YQzuzFt_sjnobFRHgKt6c65_34xuIRGDy7HZ3S0S6E5N4BIefKICRVTB40-cjPXpCI3Az-AfyLIzAyre2DdmAbzuL/s1600/2015-02-05+7509.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Paddling in winter." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjLNM520sqKPeG-O2jxM_t6dMi6Tk37tLFavgSMSvo_9l2H4nXW0YQzuzFt_sjnobFRHgKt6c65_34xuIRGDy7HZ3S0S6E5N4BIefKICRVTB40-cjPXpCI3Az-AfyLIzAyre2DdmAbzuL/s1600/2015-02-05+7509.jpg" height="265" title="Paddling in winter." width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiPFDU6pkXav0yTS91w-nmTvExGHcK7pAe5d6blj6DBI7AWbk_1cTJ7l3kDt-VF4KTT6fOyuVuEwTkJ20J_3OkOCoWaS58ffY_mj0_8D2RpD5DaqvVwMcuktgDdgM5ct5F63xibQQlEIy/s1600/2015-02-05+7524.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Ice formations" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiPFDU6pkXav0yTS91w-nmTvExGHcK7pAe5d6blj6DBI7AWbk_1cTJ7l3kDt-VF4KTT6fOyuVuEwTkJ20J_3OkOCoWaS58ffY_mj0_8D2RpD5DaqvVwMcuktgDdgM5ct5F63xibQQlEIy/s1600/2015-02-05+7524.jpg" height="266" title="Ice formations" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl92ImBbJo_kmKc8G1BCCgNdbcay-NtGosa8pZhtt7h6LGJTNrlYUAxUZRcXEJIwSX2riADQdBv9ddURtfSGrD-y2eh6FVvdgPJ-8JzUijTy2Ma6L7Zi3VGtiLo4KOkxXl76mDEyKPbeO7/s1600/2015-02-05+7551.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Cottage covered in snow" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl92ImBbJo_kmKc8G1BCCgNdbcay-NtGosa8pZhtt7h6LGJTNrlYUAxUZRcXEJIwSX2riADQdBv9ddURtfSGrD-y2eh6FVvdgPJ-8JzUijTy2Ma6L7Zi3VGtiLo4KOkxXl76mDEyKPbeO7/s1600/2015-02-05+7551.jpg" height="213" title="Cottage covered in snow" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE60PuLcaJoF_19MwLcRJp6ppJpCihQvFCTuShqtwpdGHLpRoXfawdqZ8ri1_32f0maT8I6hnrtASP3T1anKMTIhVGZXvB1NqXZgL6IiYWCNYzWk3B7mdPT0sun4r988Qow8dzfyS3HauJ/s1600/2015-02-05+7564.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Canoe on ice." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE60PuLcaJoF_19MwLcRJp6ppJpCihQvFCTuShqtwpdGHLpRoXfawdqZ8ri1_32f0maT8I6hnrtASP3T1anKMTIhVGZXvB1NqXZgL6IiYWCNYzWk3B7mdPT0sun4r988Qow8dzfyS3HauJ/s1600/2015-02-05+7564.jpg" height="265" title="Canoe on ice." width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back on thick ice, you can see the track made by the canoe.</td></tr>
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<br />Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-36896374877368850422015-01-31T06:10:00.002-08:002015-02-19T02:09:41.284-08:00Computer aided paddle designI've been looking for a good software for canoe paddle designing and the best one I found is <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html">Adobe Illustrator</a>. Although it's not made specifically for paddle design it works very well, both for symmetrical and asymetrical paddles and it is at the moment my software of choice.<br />
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I have created a <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7okHphq1an8NFhwa1dEYTJKVW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">basic paddle design</a> file here which you can download and modify to your liking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFBmRjCYZ6yJBKkhECMCuP-BDAA1LGWc6udSrS5RyYo9AD48dV4tfQDa8oHnX30ytl9TAX4-YkF0h0VoPdp13VAMLwoO8RFqOInkVFwAHo8D-s8uyySS9riwuC4Ey9-zE2zYAL2m2Intz/s1600/basicpaddle.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFBmRjCYZ6yJBKkhECMCuP-BDAA1LGWc6udSrS5RyYo9AD48dV4tfQDa8oHnX30ytl9TAX4-YkF0h0VoPdp13VAMLwoO8RFqOInkVFwAHo8D-s8uyySS9riwuC4Ey9-zE2zYAL2m2Intz/s1600/basicpaddle.png" height="320" width="66" /></a></div>
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Here's a bit about how to work with the file:<br />
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<ul>
<li>You need Adobe Illustrator to open it.</li>
<li>You can change the measurements to inches if you want by pressing Document Format in the top.</li>
<li>You modify the left side and your modifications will be mirrored to the right side. Use the white arrow to select anchor points and move them around to change shape. If you are new to Illustrator/vector graphics I suggest you follow some getting started guide.</li>
<li>There is a ruler tool, in the menu to the left. It helps a lot to get the measurements right for the shaft and blade.</li>
<li>You can print the whole paddle and tape the papers together to get a good real size template. Choose "Pages side by side" when you print, otherwise you only get part of the paddle printed.</li>
</ul>
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With some modification this method can be used for asymetrical paddles too. For example my upcoming paddle:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNasBrsaxjA0EsVpy6IOcfnEY1BHcthtqzQJACYxnGV8zmiYD0LFYO8hvRFkf7-oAlOLgHvKnp25ALrsskHbK0-xZ02bqNgv05-7HzQT_cXt1VNJeXi1mTKk__W8F9f-S-7CnpFXt3CQsX/s1600/CurvyPaddle.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNasBrsaxjA0EsVpy6IOcfnEY1BHcthtqzQJACYxnGV8zmiYD0LFYO8hvRFkf7-oAlOLgHvKnp25ALrsskHbK0-xZ02bqNgv05-7HzQT_cXt1VNJeXi1mTKk__W8F9f-S-7CnpFXt3CQsX/s1600/CurvyPaddle.png" height="320" width="34" /></a></div>
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I hope this was of some help. And if you know any better software for paddle designing please let me know!</div>
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Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5066234534668109002.post-41620916707060887122014-12-03T13:34:00.000-08:002015-02-19T02:10:31.012-08:00Tar and shellac finish on canvas canoeI don't see this very often on the net but it's pretty comon here in Sweden so I thought I should mention it.<br />
I started canoeing during a 2 years course at <a href="http://www.sjovik.eu/">Sjöviks Folkhögskola</a> in Sweden. It was a bushcraft course with very big emphasis on canoeing. That said, we used the canoes A LOT, so they needed to be strong but still light enough for the average person to portage.<br />
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<b>Applying it</b><br />
The solution is to treat the canvas with about 3-4 coats of tar, applied in spring when the sun is strong but before it's too hot so the tar starts dripping. It needs to be rubbed in deeply in the canvas. We usually did it with big brushes. But be careful not to put too much, it will take forever to dry. It's okay if the first coats look uneven. Depending on the weather you might have to wait between 5 days and a few weeks between coats. I would say usually around 1 week. Let it dry by a south wall outdoors for quickest drying.<br />
When the tar has dried you're ready to apply shellac. The best is to use "orange shellac"-flakes which are not dewaxed. Then mash them up into small pieces and mix them with denatured alcohol (one third shellac flakes to two thirds of alcohol). It takes a while to dissolve and you need to shake it from time to time. When it's all liquid you're ready to go.<br />
Apply it under the water line. I recommend taping the water line for a straight line. You will see that it dries very quickly. And for each layer it will be quicker and quicker. But don't stress it. For the first 4 layers you should do just 2 a day. Then after that you can do a few more per day, especially if it's sunny. It's good to sand it a bit with 100 grit between coats so it mixes up instead of creating layers. After about 8 coats you should be fine. Then you have to wait at least 24 hours before putting it in water. If the shellac comes in contact with water before it dried it will turn white. But do not fret if this happens. All you have to do is wait and let it dry completely then apply another layer of shellac and the white will disappear like magic.<br />
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<b>What's good about it</b><br />
When you apply a new layer of shellac it will merge with the old one. So if you get a scratch on the canoe you can just put one stroke of shellac and it will be gone. If you get a rip in the canvas all you have to do is put on a piece of fabric, or even better, leukoplast, and then just put a few coats of shellac. Duct tape attaches too and works in emergencies, but it won't take on the shellac.<br />
Over time the shellac will crack up a bit (though not take in water). But all you have to do then is apply another coat. Even if you aply shellac to just a small part of the canoe it merges seamlessly with the old one so there is no need to do the whole thing every time.<br />
Oil colors attaches nicely to both the tar and canvas.<br />
It's lighter than a filler-coat and completely decomposable.<br />
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Here's a photo of my canoe, coated with tar and shellac.<br />
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The name comes from the worlds oldest tree, Old Tjikko, a spruce close to where I built the canoe (the canoe is also made of spruce).Jonas Sjöblomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06702691285263458964noreply@blogger.com0