2 old paddles saved from getting burned

My classmate found these 2 beauties in an old barn and saved them from getting burned in a big clean out.

One of them seem to be a child model as the blade-area is very small and the shaft is shorter than on the other. What confuses me though is that the grip and shaft is way too big for a child.
The other seems to be an ordinary beaver tail.
From what I can tell they are both made with a pine core and laminated spruce on the grip and blade with a worn out varnish finish. I guess the material choice was just because pine and spruce are easy to come by here and it's easier to find long knot-free pieces of pine than spruce.

Since I can't find any sign on either of them they're hard to identify. But there hasn't been a lot of commercial paddles made in Sweden so I made some research. I assumed they are made commercially as the lamination on one of the grips is quite advanced for an amateur without proper tools.
In Swedens digital museum I found photos of very similar paddles made by ABC-fabrikerna which made sports and outdoor gear between 1909 and 1982. The grip lamination seems to be the same as on one of the paddles I got. The spine has the same sharp edge as mine and the grip shape and overall "feel" matches well too.

Close up of the grips. I used the lamination on the small one to identify the paddles.

The spine is very sharp on the big paddle. Some of the paddles from ABC-fabrikerna seem to have been made this way.

Though the ones in the museum is made from pine. But it could be a miss-identification on my part. Or maybe they used both spruce and pine.
Hopefully I get a chance to visit that museum in summer when I work with kayak rental nearby.

One of the paddles had an interesting detail on top of the grip. I'm speculating in if it could either be a rest from a lathe if the shaft was turned, or a hole where a metal piece have been stuck in for balancing the paddle. It looks like a drilled hole with a wooden plug. The other paddle has something similar but smaller.

If you know anything about these paddles please let me know!

While researching these paddles I got some insight into Swedish canoe history. I find it really interesting to see how the skills of canoe building have spread and it gives me a sort of stronger feeling of connection to the Swedish canoe history. As we are not many who build and paddle wooden canoes here anymore.
The man who introduced and started building open canoes in Sweden was Harry Macfie. Who spent over 20 years in Canada as a gold washer, trapper and mining engineer. While there he learned the art of building wood canvas canoes.
He came back to Sweden and 1927 he started building wooden canvas canoes in his workshop at home. His canoes soon became famous as real works of art.
1938 the production was taken over by Mårten Gedda after Macfie sold the rights to ABC-fabrikerna.
ABC-fabrikerna produced hundreds of canvas canoes a year for many years. So when you do find an old Swedish canvas canoe it is almost always a Gedda or in rare cases a Macfie.
Today I only know of 2 people who make and sell canvas canoes. One is my old teacher Bo Weslien who mainly makes his own model called Lom, which is an amazing solo model with maneuverability unlike anything else I paddled. And the other is Magnus Carlson who also works as an outdoor teacher but builds canoes in his free time, mainly Prospectors.
Ove Larsson, another teacher (what's with teachers building canoes?) builds canoes with his 9th grade students and holds weekly canoe and kayak building courses.

Open canoe paddles 2: The shaft

The main purpose of the shaft in a paddle is to act as leaverage to transfer the force from the upper hand to the blade. The lower hand should mainly act as the pivot. Therefore the length of the shaft has a very big effect on the paddling. The other things which should be considered is the form (round or oval, or a combination of both) and thickness.
I've split this article into 3 sections; Length, Thickness and Form.

Length

'Shaft length' extends from the top of the grip to the throat of the blade, just where it starts widening.
The most common way to decide if a paddle is the right length is to put it on the ground and see if it reaches somewhere around your mouth. This way of measuring the paddle isn't really correct. Since what matters is the shaft length, not the paddles total length. You want a shaft length where, when you sit in the canoe and the whole blade is submerged, your upper hand is at about the height of your eyes. If the shaft is longer you have to stretch out your upper arm which forces you to use your arms instead of your torso. The right shaft length makes it much easier to use the torso while paddling. And with a long blade youre forced to make longer strokes. If you start the stroke far towards the bow you're just pressing water downwards, moving the canoe up. And similarly if you end the stroke far toward the stern you push water up, pulling the canoe down which just raises resistance.
A too short paddle on the other hand will lessen the leaverage which makes it harder to paddle. And the blade will also be partly above the water which creates "ventilation". The blade pulls down air behind the paddle which makes the water you press away in front of the blade fall in behind the paddle. So you lose power in the stroke.

So summarizing it, the better you are at using the torso (efficient paddling) the shorter shaft you'll want. And the shorter shaft you have the easier it will be to paddle efficiently. But if you paddle incorrectly with a too short shaft you'll get tired really fast.

Now that's the basics. But unfortunately, this isn't all there is to it. Which canoe you paddle matters, since the seat height and gunwhale height over water varies in different canoes. And if you tilt the canoe while paddling or sit on your knees that also changes your distance from the water. Your technique also affects the length. If you do short quick strokes rather than long ones you need a shorter shaft. And if you're stern paddler you might want a little longer shaft for more effective steering strokes.
The method I use to find out correct length is to try a paddle and analyze my stroke. At the point in the stroke where the paddle is at the deepest I want the blade to be just below surface and the upper hand in height with my eyes.
The easiest way to find this is with a paddle with adjustable shaft length. If you don't have one you can try with a slightly too long paddle and see how far under the surface the throat of the blade is (when at the deepest part of a stroke which has the grip at eye height) and remove that length from the shaft when you make or buy a new one.
But generally people use too long paddles. So my personal recommendation for you is to get a paddle just a little shorter than you think you need. The latest solo paddle I made has a shaft length of just 56 cm (22") and I feel I could cut it down by an inch or two still.

Thickness

Thickness is mainly about strength. A thicker shaft is obviously stronger. But it's also about balance, weight and comfort. A thinner shaft is lighter and easier to grab since you hold it in a loose grip. While a thicker shaft aids in balancing the paddle as it puts more weight on the grip side.

Form

An oval shaft is perpendicular to the blade for strength and comfort.

The form of the shaft is either round or oval. A round shaft is easier to flip when for example doing j-strokes. While an oval shaft gives a better grip and feel of orientation. An oval shaft is perpendicular to the blade to maintain the strength of a round shaft and to fit better in the hand. This means that by using an oval shaft you save some weight without losing strength. But for a paddle maker this makes it harder to balance the paddle (see previous post on balance) since you remove weight on the shaft side, which is already too light. A solution for this problem is to have the shaft round near the grip and then bevel it to an oval shape towards the blade. The thinner shaft near the throat also lessens the ventilation (see above).